Big Chill AKA the Spikes Stay!

No, I’m not predicting a boiler breakdown, which like many other mechanicals, usually strikes at the least convenient moment. I’m referring to the crashing temperatures and “white-outs” (a seasonal obsession with some sections of the UK’s mainstream media, presumably to distract from the consequences of Brexit. I’m starting to notice shortages of fresh produce in supermarkets and suspect this will become more apparent since fresh fruit and vegetable produce cannot be stockpiled.).  

Until Wednesday, local lanes have been predominantly cold, wet and greasy but nothing a big section slick, such as the Schwalbe Kojak couldn’t take in their stride.  

Nonetheless, I knew Murphey’s law would see temperature plummet the moment I switched the spikes in favour of slicks. A sharp reminder came when navigating the serenely silent stretches. Starry skies, glistening asphalt cluing me in and sure enough, around the bend- black ice.  

A momentary loss of traction was quickly reclaimed by the Marathon Plus’ Tungsten carbide spikes. Seeing the depth of the shimmering ice looming ahead (and clinging to the bodies of solitary passing vehicles), urged caution. I have also chosen to resurrect the ORP Smart Horn TESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) to alert pedestrians/dogwalkers of my presence. For the most part, friendly “Good morning/Afternoon/Evening” works fine. However, cold weather and winds can impair this, so a friendly upward prod of the “Whale tail” should sort this.   

Sticking with the Univega means sodden backsides are a distant memory, thanks to its full-length chrome plastic mudguards. These also keep the bike markedly cleaner, thus extending maintenance intervals. I was surprised to discover some superficial brown taint on the nickel-plated areas of Ursula’s Shimano M540 pedals. Especially since I didn’t notice any salting beyond the main roads. Nothing a quick shot of GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) couldn’t smother.  

Nonetheless, a weekly wash down is advisable to remove any salts/similar corrosives and while stodgy wet lubes are an obvious choice, give a chain’s side plates, derailleur jockey wheels, and cage(s) a clean rag cat-lick. Purging this unsightly excess evolving into a gritty grinding paste.  

Really impacted stuff is best blitzed with a solvent-based degreaser, and fresh lubricant applied. Chill and shorter days mean convenience is sometimes king. Strong solvent degreasers, including Weldtite Jet Blast WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) make this a more time-efficient process, when the temperature’s tanking. Those looking for a more frugal lube stripper might find Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner MUC-OFF DRIVE TRAIN CLEANER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

For really deep cleans, I’m fond of Green Oil Agent Apple Extreme Immersion Degreaser TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) . Don’t be fooled into thinking vegetable-based solvents are mild and friendly though. These can be just as, or more flammable than their petrochemical counterparts.  

Testing aside, I’ve never felt the need to remove and immerse the cassette (although this is certainly an option and something I’d be inclined to do, with chains-if only to protect the frame’s finish from accidental spatter). However, I do whip the wheel out before basting the product on, angling the cassette toward the tarmac, so solvent runs away from the hub and therefore, rubberised components, such as seals.   

     

I’ve also purchased another UN300 bottom bracket, to subvert potential supply problems nearer the time, when its existing UN55 starts grumbling. I occasionally toy with the idea of taking the Hollowtech route, probably reaching for the Shimano Zee crankset, since that’s “in stock”. However, I have the ratios right and it makes sense to run the existing setup, while its practical and economic to do so. I was going to order a few gear inner wires but found four, while rooting around my storage boxes.  

Cursory inspection, using this Kranx Chain Wear Indicator KRANX CHAIN WEAR INDICATOR | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) suggests the chain’s still in pretty good health, reckon I’ve got another three, maybe four hundred miles before substitution’s needed. Little n’ often maintenance is the way to swerving most problems.  

However, the COVID19 pandemic continues to rampage through the country. It has reached the point where the capital’s firefighters and police officers are now driving ambulances. I knew the relaxing of conditions for Christmas day would induce another pronounced spike in infection rates and envisaged the army’s engagement. However, I hadn’t envisaged the present chaos, which is both surreal and unsettling.  

Yikes! On Go The Spikes

Tanking temperatures forced the issue late on Wednesday night (30th) Time to fit the Schwalbe Winter to Ursula and my fixed gear winter trainer, especially since I would be resuming night rides come the first week in January. Thursday morning came and by 9am, it was struggling to reach minus 3 degrees, so my initiative paid off.  

Now, it's worth noting that my fixed gear winter trainer only has enough room for a 35mm slick in the rear triangle, hence, I stick with the standard 32/35mm road rubber, especially since of the two, it’ better to have spikes up front (assuming you can’t fit a pair, obviously). The Winter plus differ from their winter siblings in terms of spikes-number and location.  

I can usually bowl along quite nicely, to around 17mph on icy stretches, running the budget winter, but the winter plus have palpably more bite when things turn mean and snowy. Since we’re on the subject, look closely at Ursula (my Univega) and you’ll note I’m running a Marathon Winter Plus up front and the base Winter TESTED: SCHWALBE WINTER SPIKED TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) behind.  

This boiled down to being unable to locate both Winter Plus, so the next best thing. Here in the UK, it’s rare that we get long spells of snowy/icy conditions, so the Winter’s slightly worn Tungsten Carbide studs shouldn’t present any problems. 1.75 width also frees up a bit of clearance, so mudguards are also less likely to get fouled, or clogged with snow, should that materialise here. Main thing is, I can relax, enjoy the ride and stand a sporting chance of remaining rubber up. Reliability trumps speed.  

Well-prepped winter bikes greatly reduce mechanicals-the last thing you want when it's bitterly cold and you’re miles from home.After The Gritters Went Home | Seven Day Cyclist Especially if you’re introducing children or a significant other, to the joys of winter on two wheels.  

Pack hubs, headsets, and fit bottom brackets /seat posts etc with stiff stay put greases. Keep the bike clean and periodically apply a good quality paste wax to make this process easier, while also repelling UV light, road salt, and other caustic nasties.  

I’d been toying with the idea of fitting some SKS Speed Rocker to the fixed since these would subvert clearance issues with 35mm tyres, and of course, the Gusset Headlock system.  

However, if you are going the clip-on route, apply some helicopter tape around the fork blades and stays, where the guards attach (even the high-end models), to prevent gritty stuff from getting behind and potentially marking the bike’s finish. Prevention is always easier and usually cheaper than cure-especially on a carbon composite frameset.  

Thankfully, the cold snap dried things up a little but I was surprised by the effect freezing temperatures have had upon the Apeman A80APEMAN A80 ACTION CAMERA | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which has been powering down after 40 seconds of footage, whereas the now seemingly obsolete Geonaute G-Eye-2 Escape will keep rolling, even when it’s -3.   

The Kinekt 2.1 Suspension Seat postKINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) finally succumbed to the same squeak as their stem. Once again, I applied a little Green Oil SlipGREEN OIL SLIP ECO LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com) to the moving parts, and it became progressively silent over the course of 15miles. It remains pleasingly so. A silicone-based spray, such as Muc-Off Silicon Shine MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) might’ve been the fastest cure, but I have a suspicion these might not be so durable, at least during a very cold, wet spell.