Ramble On

 Clement weather has allowed more playtime on the Holdsworth, and I’m pleased that I went the star-fangled nut route since the once excellent expander wedge wasn’t doing its thing. A steady cadence and 30kmh (18.6mph) average on a local loop but there have been a few moments, on the climbs when I’ve felt the 81inch gear a little lofty. Brake and lever tweaks were inspired decisions too.  

I was also pondering upgrading the fixed gear winter/trainer’s chain tugs for a set of MKS. Hardly a priority, in the grand scheme of things, not to mention supply and therefore, cost implications.  

Rationale’ for this? In my experience, the MKS maintains chain tension better, in my experience. Save for wheel removals, I’ve not needed to tweak the Holdsworth’s-ever. Mileage depending, I’m tweaking the winter fixed’s every four weeks. Factors such as chain quality play a part- the S1 were cheap, but crucially cheerful, so will stay, although when it comes to bang for buck, KMC’s Z510HX is hard to beat. Gusset’s S link (half-link) model was another favourite a good for fixed gear conversions, although at 360g, heft may be unpalatable for some.  

Besides, while “use what you have” is generally sound business practice, it's particularly prudent, given the present economic climate.

I always recommend some form of lighting, even during the height of summer. In these parts, sunrise strikes before 430am. Early morning blasts, or extended playtimes on the best bike (s) can be changeable and relatively powerful safety lights can be a boon, should dusk catch you napping, you get lost, or mechanical strike.  

Overkill perhaps, but I’m running the Magic Shine Ray 2600 up front. As the name suggests, it’s capable of delivery of 2600lumens. However, I’m running the 330-lumen flashing and pulsing settings, which are the most frugal and very captivating. At the rear, A 60 lumen Moon Shield. Arguably overkill in the highest settings and assuming you hadn’t fried their retinas, likely to induce anger and rebuke at close quarters for any period.  

I also retain a fondness for the original Magic Shine See Mee 200, which still gets used a far bit, nearly two years down the line. However, I found the “braking” function a little too sensitive and prolonged, which put a palpable dent in the run times.  

Against this backdrop, Magicshine has sent me their V2. There are several revisions. Dis/engaging the braking function only requires a 3, rather than 5-second press. This version has also been simplified in terms of modes, which for me, is another improvement.  

Sometimes, less is more. The original had eight in total, the V2 has four- two constant, two flashing-alongside a smart mode. They’ve also sent me their See Mee 150 Combo. A front and rear pairing delivering 150lumens, in their highest of four and six modes, respectively. The 150 rear, is markedly smaller than the 200, due to the latter's second “tracer” lens that casts a flood beam at the road.  

Not essential, nor completely unique- I have others employing similar technologies. This Tern hugging the Holdsworth’s seat post, being a case in point. As an aside, the mount has proved interchangeable with others in the family I’ve used-the 100, 180 specifically. A small but welcome thing, reducing production costs into the bargain.  

I’ve slipped the 150 front atop Ursula’s Soma Condor 2 bars SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com) and run the 200 behind, whereas the rear 150 is gracing my fixed gear winter trainer’s Cane Creek Thud Buster G4 

 

I also received a second Souma Leather Bar Tape, so wasted no time in treating Ursula’s bars, not least since I’m interested to see how good damping sans asphalt is. My hypothesis is that gel underlays are the way forward if you’re doing a lot of adventurous touring. The sort involving unmade roads, or indeed, gravel.  

Curiously, this sample was easier to apply than the first. Allowing for factors such as bar shape, natural products, vary slightly when it comes to density, finish and “give”. This would probably explain why getting it started and flowing uniformly took much less effort The finish also seems grippier, from the outset-regardless of glove/palm type, which was another pleasant surprise. As were these Salice Glasses, modeled here, by Miriam.  

I’ll only be five minutes...

 

I’ve been here more times than I’d care to admit. I am unlikely to be the only rider who has a flash of inspiration and only to find those five minutes expanding to fit the time available. Midday, on Saturday, I decided I’d just tweak the Holdsworth’s brake lever positioning.  

A simple matter of unwinding the T-One MR Fantastic Handlebar Tape, slipping a long 5mm Allen key into the lever, moving upwards, then refitting the wrap around the Coefficient Wave Handlebars COEFFICIENT WAVE HANDLEBAR | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Before I knew it, I’d switched the old but worthy Tektro for a new silver RL340 and fresh inner wire, and  the T-One MR Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) substituted for this Ciclovation Grind Touch Bar Tape CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

I’d got past the point of being hungry, and my blood sugar was beginning to slide. Not ideal, nor my rendition of Ozzy Osbourne’s “No Bone Movies”. Crucially, the job was done, and maybe it’s the successful recycling of bar tape, but the results pleased me. Lever perfectly aligned and sufficient power to bring the rear wheel off the ground-if that’s your thing.  

Now glue that freshly pruned inner wire and celebrate with some cake and diesel strength coffee.... Tyres inflated, good weather, check. Off for a dawn blast, which confirmed these subtle tweaks were well worth the time and unintentionally extended fettling.  

The soundtrack to this outing had shifted to Keith Richards’ Talk is Cheap, which hails from 1988 but still resonates very deeply with me. (Bought the Album (vinyl) in the summer of ‘92 and Main Offender, his subsequent album in the summer of 1993, in case it mattered) Had a few rabbits test the front stopper, which did its thing with palpable efficiency. It’s also smoother than the older Tektro lever.  

Much of this, I attribute to the RL340 being a more ergonomic fit for my hand.  The Knog Nerd Computer had also stopped working. Something I attributed to the head units CR2032 cell finally giving up the ghost.  

Couldn’t justify additional diagnostic time and indeed, time away from other tasks, so revisited this, post ride. I’ve a soft spot for the NERD, so was relieved to find the cell hadn’t leaked and caused contact/more acute damage.  

Battery switched, unit re-calibrated and back on the bars. The NERD in question is the baby of the now discontinued range and only has 5 functions. Current speed, trip distance, trip time, clock and odometer. Befitting of a pared to the essentials road bike-I love the simplicity and the NERDs seem solid too.  

The first cycle computer I ever had was back in 1989- wired 6 function Cat-Eye Vectra that I fitted to my fixed gear conversion, which was based around a 501 tubed Raleigh frameset. Fag sealed bottom bracket, very ornate GB quill stem, 42cm SR bars, SR track crankset, fluted polished alloy post, Turbo copy Suede saddle (worn smooth, eventually)  

I loved and rode that bike for four years, until the frame fatigued where head and downtube met.... Maillard double-fixed hub laced to basic but serviceable Weinmann rims and shod with Vittoria Roma 25mm tyres.  Back then, Cat-Eye and Avocet and Vetta were common sights on seasoned riders ‘bars.  

Wired computers were (and arguably still are) the most reliable. However, remember to remove, when performing headset strips, otherwise you’ll snag and ultimately, rip the cabling. An unenviable feat and one I achieved twice. By that point, the gap in terms of prices and reliability between wired and wireless had closed considerably.    

I’ve seen a few doing the rounds on auction sites and at sensible prices. If I was wanting to add the finishing touch to a bike from this period, maybe. Wouldn’t pay classic prices for one, though. I occasionally get drawn to framesets, such as the magnesium Kirk Precision. Interesting, and often maligned framesets but much of this comes from a misunderstanding of the concept.  

These were conceived as a mass-produced and very inexpensive racing frameset. Casting wasn’t the best and there are few left these days. I was offered a frameset (new) with headset, seat post, and bottom bracket for £99.99 back in 1990. I sometimes reflect on that being a missed opportunity, but I also recognise, at the time, it was a distraction purchase.  

A distraction from teen angst and unrequited love. Serious things at the time and felt very acutely. Talking of concepts, I’m finding myself increasingly warming to TPU tubes, as a serious alternative to butyl. Weight and ride quality are the main draws, price and ease of repair are two turnoffs. I’m running some on the Teenage Dream, fixed gear winter trainer, too (with butyl tubes in the wedge packs, in case of flats. Some, including Eclipse can be patched, but curing times aren’t rest-stop friendly).