Darker, Cooler, Wetter

Continuing my theme of winter prep, I’ve received a set of these Mudhugger Gravel Hugger mudguards for testing. My fixed gear winter/trainer is the obvious candidate. Now, it sported traditional, full-length guards for several years. However, in common with Ursula, it runs the Gusset Headlock system rather than the star-fangled nut. This means the front guard needs to be drilled (so the threaded bolt can pass through), setting bearing tension and aligning the guard, first time round is something of a juggling act.  

Fine when set up, but on my fixed gear winter/trainer, the rear guard also needs to be drilled to mount to the wishbone, and tackling a rear puncture often requires loosening the stays. Sure, this is a relatively rare event, especially with tyres such as the Kenda  Kwick Journey KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but it’s not something I relish on cold, wet, gritty nights. Hence, clip-on designs are the way forward.  

Made from (material) the Gravel Hugger are incredibly convenient to install, although (and this goes for all this genre), a bit of “Helicopter Tape” (Thoughtfully Mudhugger have included some) or, in a pinch, good quality electrical tape prevents any potential abrasion of seat stay paintwork.  

The sort often caused by that infamous wet, gritty stuff I was talking about earlier. Crucially, there is a generous length at the rear to protect rider and machine from muck and spray. Back to full-length mudguards (fenders), it’s worth giving fasteners a quick lick of medium strength thread lock. Strong enough to prevent them shaking loose, and getting lost but permit straightforward, intentional disassembly. I’d also be inclined to give carrier, cantilever, and V brake bolts a very quick lick but swerve disc hardware.  

Now, many folks will point out that 26-inch wheels are old-fashioned, rather than “old school”. However, those of you are running an older mtb (s) as an asphalt commuter, or hardy winter bike may find 700c mudguards fit very well and offer superior protection, especially with big flaps, such as these   RAW Prismatic Reflective Yellow Mudflaps  RAW PRISMATIC REFLECTIVE MUDFLAPS | cycling, but not usually racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

Elsewhere, while it's still been temperate enough for short sleeve summer weight jerseys, base layers and bib shorts-even at 5am, this isn’t likely to continue too much longer. Therefore, I stuff a micro jacket, or gilet into the bike-mounted luggage, rather than risk a lingering chest infection. The sort that leaves me coughing like a life-long chain-smoking welder. Some mornings have called for the Prendas Ciclismo Paris Bordeaux Long Sleeve Jersey PRENDAS CICLISMO LONG SLEEVE JERSEY | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

The Sigma Infinity continues to grow on me with its blend of prowess, simplicity, and frugality. Though lacking the outright punch of some big lumen flashers, it's surprisingly potent, especially in some seriously misty conditions. Ok, not quite “pea-soupers” or synonymous with the moors scenes in American Werewolf in London (which by the way, is one of my all-time favourite horror films.) 

Elsewhere, I was rather delighted to discover another roll of the fabulous Velo Orange Rubbery Baer Tape landing on my door. Conor reckoned his initial consignment had gone missing within the states, so very graciously sent another. I wasted no time in dressing the fixed’s bars. I regularly talk about chain lubes but until recently, have stuck with the factory stuff on Ursula’s latest KMC. Partly as I wanted to confirm that the cassette swap solved the mid-range remote shifting woes.  

For the record, the factory prep is very good and, in some instances, I’ve passed the 500-mile mark, during winter. Anyhow, 225 miles down the line, having returned from a 5 am “pea souper”, I decided the chain looked deceptively thirsty, so I found myself getting busy with the solvent bath. The oily residue clued me in, but there we are. Time being I’ve gone back to the Peaty’s LInk Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since conditions allow and for me at least, it’s a decent fair-weather default.  

 

Plans & Prep

 

Having done some extensive overhauling and replacement of Ursula’s cockpit and drivetrain, September’s subtle changes encouraged me to scrutinise my fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain components. All seemed basically sound, although the KMC Z510 HX chain was showing signs of fatigue and due its pension, so I switched it for this blue KMC S1. 

A cheap, but hopefully cheerful and relatively quiet replacement. Time and miles will tell. A slightly cheaper chain replaced more frequently is always better than a neglected top draw model, which will chew through more expensive components, or fail, at a critical moment.  

I returned 3,000 miles from the Z510, though I will be suitably pleased to get 1200 from the S1. Not that I’m powerfully built but I don’t run a rear brake, moderating speed by holding off against the cranks. In any case, I have a beefy, half-link HL710 BMX model waiting in the wings, when the S1 starts losing its edge. Back in the late 80’s, when I was riding conversions, 3/32 Sedis and beveled sprockets were my defaults and performed reliably enough, compensating for any slight chain line imprecision. I much prefer beefier track types though.  

Tension is another important consideration. Too little and the chain’s sagging, possibly coming off, sending you down. Too much and aside from being brutally inefficient, accelerating wear also runs the risk of breakage.  

Since we’re on the subject, tough fixed drivetrains are simple, don’t forget to give the sprocket threads a helping of stiff grease periodically to prevent them seizing. They’re easily forgotten but get basted in a fair amount of caustic, slimy cack. 

A few rides in, I then discovered some slop in the Fixed G hub-checked the obvious stuff-track nuts were snug, ditto the sprocket and spacers. Play was definitely coming from the sealed hub bearings. These are Japanese EZO bearing (6000 size) so not something I had readily to hand.  

For the time being, I’ve switched to the Halo deep-section Aerorage wheel, until such time as their replacements arrive and I have time to perform the op. Cursory inspection suggests some specialist tooling, including circlip pliers, which will otherwise be used infrequently, so I may well outsource this to a good local wheel builder while I pursue other projects. 

 

Noticed some minor cuts in the long-serving 35mm section Schwalbe Marathon GT tyre casing. Easily sorted with a quick drop of superglue. Prevention is always more convenient than cure. On a roll, cleats were replaced. The existing fasteners had turned arthritic, though stopped short of seized. Two short blasts of penetrant/freeing oil and trusty 4mm Allen key secured their release. I added a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease to the fasteners.PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Otherwise, I'm making the very most of ambient conditions, enjoying the Teenage Dream’s spirited charms. 

 

The Ravemen CR600 is proving a good companion, albeit with short run times in the highest, 600-lumen setting. Comes with the territory, i.e. typical of compact, high-power lights. That said, output quality is better than I’ve come to expect from mid-power models. Holes and similar hazards are easily spotted from a decent distance and at a reasonable pace.  

However,800 lumens upwards.is a better option for regular/longer distance backroad fun. If you can handle the relative bulk, its 1200lumen cousin is well worth a look. RAVEMEN PR 1200 DUAL LENS FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  Sportive and Audax riders are much better served by dynamo systems, and I’ve been seriously impressed by the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag Dynamo Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Rural roads aren’t generally littered with glass and similar sharps, but thorns and hedge clippings can be quite prevalent at certain points of the year. A few miles from home on my dawn blast, I was feeling the stirrings of a very large bowel movement, which was also urging a quicker tempo. Then I felt that ominous up n’ down sinking feeling...Yup, the rear tyre had been slowly bleeding pressure and when I stopped to check, I was down from 130, to 20psi.

   

Inconvenient but spare tube, tyre levers and Lezyne pump meant I was back on the road and racing for the toilet, fearing my bowels might overtake me. Thankfully they didn’t, but it was an uncomfortably close thing. I would’ve got away quicker but was foiled by a faulty CO2 cartridge...