Tighten Thy Top Cap !!!

Some of you may recall I'd been trying to diagnose a small but low level rattle, on my fixed gear winter/trainer. Some minor jingle is attributable to a bag of fasteners, tucked away in the depths of its SQR Tour bag. The Eureka moment struck, not while screaming along a 1 in 4 at 35mph, but grinding along a long, deceptively flat section of washboard tarmac. 

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This frustrating percussion was traced to an aluminium spacer drumming against the top-cap and Redshift Sports Shock Stop Suspension stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/red , indicating the Gusset Headlock, had worked slightly loose.  For those unfamiliar with the system, its a more secure alternative to the humble Star Fangled Nut. It comprises of a CNC machined top cap, cro-moly bolt and alloy nut. 

Aside from keeping the bearing tension bang on, theoretically it offers some additional security in the event of (gulp) steerer failure. The system  carries a slight weight penalty, requires some filing and subtle bending of mudguard (fender) mounts. They're also incompatible with dual pivot and other side-pull brakes. However, I consider them a definite upgrade for machines with cantilever/V/Disc stoppers.   

For some reason, I  couldn't locate my multi tool, by the roadside. However, I was only three miles from home. Snugged tight, I slipped this GT multi-tool in the SQR Tour's side pocket, for easy access.  Talking of SQR, while fitting this Oxford Contour flow saddle, I investigated my Univega's slightly "sticky" SQR bracket.   

Removing and compressing the spring, then reinstating the red, quick release mechanism proved the solution. In retrospect, a quick blast of Muc-Off Silicon shine https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-silicone-shine-polish might've done. 

However, sometimes its best to strip and inspect, especially if you haven't in a while. The bag rails now lock securely within the bracket. Never had any ejection issues, when riding, but the Carradry bag https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-carradry had a tendency to sneak from the bracket, when the bike was hanging up. 

Apparently, the Oxford Contour Flow, is "Aimed at the middling cycling enthusiast those who have just started to be gripped by the unrelenting claws of cycling passion". 

Its a sensibly narrow design, with a gender specific cutout, gel padding and seemingly neat construction.  Will be interesting to see how it compares with the Selle Italia Sport Gel Flow FEC alloy saddle. The latter is 20g lighter but weight hasn't been the reason behind its residency, a few thousand miles down the line. 

Reverting to the bike's original fork has brought a quicker, more compliant persona. Not that handling, or responsiveness was remotely average beforehand but the trials fork was portly compared to the relatively delicate looking triple butted Cro-moly originals. The Microshift Centos' standard lever travel works a treat with the Genetic CX cantilevers too.  

So glad I switched. 

I'm also very glad I swerved this "documentary" from Channel 5 https://www.channel5.com/show/cyclists-scourge-of-the-streets/ I must admit, it was reeling me in, like a super visceral horror film. the sort you really don't want to see, yet feel strongly compelled by.  

Knowing it would serve no purpose, save for raising my blood pressure, I popped out on the fixed. 

Thankfully, Chris Boardman responded in his usual, measured, reasoned and articulate way.  https://twitter.com/BritishCycling/status/1148622845695557632  All the more poignient, and dignified given his mother was  killed by a "distracted" driver. 

 Back to multi-tools, designs such as Blackburn Switch https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blackburn-switch-multi-tool have some definite advantages. However, because the bits detach, there's the real risk of losing one (or more) out in the wildes. This also serves as timely reminder, to check condition and supply of spares/tooling. Particularly those belonging to mile munching working bikes. 

140 miles in, and I'm warming to the Muc-Off dry lube, which seems surprisingly low on the friction front.  Level-pegging with Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube  , although the Zefal is cheaper and doesn't have a prescribed curing time. 

On the face of things, suggesting its more practical for commuting, impromptu rides with friends, and of course, summer touring. Having tested its PTFE infused predecessor some years back, I'm curious to how this version compares.

 Most dry lubes (excluding hardier ceramics) should return around 225 spring/summer miles from a single helping (roughly ten days/two weeks riding. Given the asking price, I'd be very disappointed if it didn't top this.

Cleanliness is impressive, no more evidence of contaminant, than the Zefal, or indeed Finish Line Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line-dry-bike-lube. It transfers less readily to hands/clothing too, which is a definite plus.

On the subject of dry. Rather than simply scabbing away, Zefal Extra Dry Premium Chain Wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-extra-dry-chain-wax seems to melt, when temperatures climb to the mid 20s. A helpful phenomenon, that redistributes lubricant, trafficking it deep within the chain, cleat and similar mechanisms. 

Forks & Functionality

I'm someone who keeps "doing" (as distinct from "to-do") lists. These are organic, and used to structure, and critically analyse how effectively I'm using time, and other resources. "To do lists are full of good intentions, but few results. Some might even describe them as "where good ideas go to die".

That established, instatiing the Univega's original (and recently refurbed) forks were on Saturday's agenda.

Organisation i.e. laying out tools, parts etc are all part of productivity. I'd suspected the long serving Tortec guards' stays were close to pensionable, so retrieved an SKS set, just in case. 

Next came the crown race removal and setting tools, grease, Allen keys, two sets of cable cutters (Premium for cables, cheap n' cheerfuls for cable ties, and similar donkey work).  

Going off piste, I decided to switch to these Genetic CX Cantilevers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes . I'm very fond of the IRD CAFAM 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes but fancied a change, and besides, the Genetic are much easier to set up. 

I love a really firm, positive action, so set the spring tension to maximum, greased the "new" forks canti posts with Park PPL1 Poly lube and popped them aboard, before turning my attentions to disassembling the Univega's existing front end. Being a daily driver, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily everything released.  

Full length mudguards (fenders) keep a remarkable amount of corrosive filth, from rider and machine, extending servicing times and ultimately, component life. I was pleasantly surprised by how much, effective Muc-Off Bio Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test was still in evidence. Old "School chair" trials fork out. I gave the Aheadset's bottom race cursory inspection, before delivering a fresh helping, of the jam-ike grease.  

Be rude (and silly) not to.  I replace headsets/ forks maybe once yearly, so find this  wallet friendly Ice Toolz crown race remover perfectly adequate. a few even taps later, I'd extracted the crown race and fitted it to the "new" forks, using my  Cyclo setting tool. 

Scrap "Gas pipe" down tubes make excellent, zero-cost alternatives, although ensure these have been cut cleanly, and accurately...

From this point, everything came back together, sans drama. Wheel reinstated, brakes setup, mudguard hardware greased and snugged tight, it was simply a case of setting bearing tension, trimming cables and naturally, treating the fork to some  Velo 21 Ultimate paintwork protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 .  

I also took this opportunity to blast some corrosion inhibiting products inside the breathe holes, before hanging the bike up. This encourages it to travel through, and evenly coat the hosts. In a pinch, anything  (petrochemical) oily will do. A teaspoon, or two of 10w/40 motor oil inside a frame, or delivered into the fork blades, via syringe will certainly help. 

I chose to use up an almost exhausted aerosol, of waxy chain lube. Given the temperate weather, it should melt nicely and distribute evenly within their inner sanctum.  Talking of which, Steve's been putting some Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Lube & Protectant through its paces 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/boeshield-t-9  

Last but not least, for this "sitting"; dynamo cable and computer sensors were tethered, to their respective blades. Weight might be a lesser consideration on a working bike and ultimately, I didn't weigh both forks. However, anecdotally, the  originals are noticeably lighter (gun to my head, probably 300g), which for me, is another bonus.

Knew there was a reason I squirreled them away...

Continuing the working bike theme, co-editor Steve Dyster has been putting Bristol Bicycles Touring Bike through its paces and seems pleasantly surprised by its blend of fun and practicality. 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bristol-bikes-touring 

Elsewhere, I've commenced testing Muc Off Dry Lube, which has a hue and odour, reminiscent of banana ice cream. It also has a recommended curing time of 4 hours, hence one I'd be inclined to re/apply the evening before riding. Once cured, it seems closer to a "diet" wax formula. 

A formative forty mile blast suggests friction's lower than a snake's testicles but I'll reserve any kind of proper judgement, for another 250, or so. Be interesting to see how it compares with the quick curing Zefal Pro Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube,  

Ironing out the imperfections

Third time lucky, they say. Bribed with biscuits, Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating https://ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/ kindly slotted in my beloved "ironing board", and the Univega's original forks. 

Ironing board??? Well, that's Carl, their shot blaster's affectionate nickname, for my beloved Bob Yak homage. One I reckon's rather fitting. Anyhow, like most of my refurbs, there were a few surprises along the way. 

First; the forks. These were chased through with industrial alcohol, to remove any frame preserve. Otherwise (this goes for anything oily, especially OIF motorcycle frames) it will turn molten during the curing phases, ruining the new finish and potentially scalding the sprayer. Not cool.  

Graham then whipped them over to the chilled iron grit cabinet. This media, is extremely effective and more durable, than others. However, for flawless results, he gave them a final tidying, using glass bead. Unlike the frame, there wasn't a nickle plated layer, beneath the flamboyant red enamel. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home   

Nonetheless, brazing and TIG work was to the stereotypically clean, uniform Taiwanese standard.  

By contrast, the trailer was submerged in the methyl chloride tank, for twenty minutes. Much as we'd anticipate, the unsealed 2K factory finish began to lift, and was coming away in grey ribbons. This revealed a phosphate rich primer, which I wasn't expecting, given the budget, yet serviceable top coat. 

From here, it went to their main blasting cabinet. One that has echos of Leatherface's cutting room, in Texas Chainsaw Massacre. After performing some remedial surgery on "the pot"; Carl stripped the remaining mulchy mess using cast iron grit. Blasting, regardless of media, provides the lightly dimpled key, for primer and subsequent coats. 

This also reveals the item's true structural integrity. I recommend asking your finisher to give you a call, once they've blasted the frame (or other item). At this point, any remedial works (and their cost implications) can be discussed and, where appropriate, commissioned. 

So, with the fork given its zinc rich, epoxy primer, I had toyed with the idea of having the trailer's swing arm finished in gloss black and the trailer (sorry, ironing board) chrome silver. However, this would be adding mischief to the mix, for no good reason. 

This still received the epoxy base coat, oven cured at 150 degrees, for 15 minutes. The faint tackiness encourages better adhesion, of the colour and clear coats. Chrome silver was then applied, and returned to the curing oven for a further fifteen minutes. 

Graham advised me against touching the colour finish, since this requires an acrylic lacquer. Oils from the skin, however slight, can cause oily patches to bleed through. 

Curiously, there was no call for lacquering the forks, since the gloss black was described as particularly hardy. Besides a small fracture in the clear coat's surface (caused by a quick release "bite mark") could result in blistering and in turn, unsightly peeling.  

Given their attention to detail, and exemplary standards of workmanship, I wasn't remotely surprised (although still delighted) by the impeccable results. Rebuilding took longer than first envisaged. Thankfully I always take photos, of disassembly. 

However, I forgot to take my own advice, when it came to two plastic sleeves. These were hidden deep within the swing arm. More by luck than judgement, I managed to reinstate them correctly, first time. 

Aside from blowing some Green Oil Eco spray lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube inside the chassis, I applied liberal slatherings of Pure Bike Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pure-bike-grease to the swing arm's plastic bushing cum bearings, which will hopefully protect and lubricate.  

Despite thorough masking, some residual specs of powder can sneak in, thus the hitch assembly required a bit of bedding in, and a shot of Green Oil ECo-Spray lube before they'd connect and release smoothly. 

Bob Elliot & Co LTD https://www.bob-elliot.co.uk/ have sent us some lovely Ravemen and Smart lights, so you'll excuse me. Time to pop them on charge, and go out to play.

Diversions & Fixations

Due to the sheer demand for Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating's expert services, my trailer and TIG welded forks blast n' paint rebirth, has been postponed. One of those things. I'd never ask anyone to work beyond their capacity. I wouldn't welcome it, so why would anyone else!

For some reason, the Halo Fixed-G https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-fixed sprocket's lock-ring, will not stay tight, subsequently, the sprocket moves along the splines. This would partly account for the annoying, low level chatter when riding across anything other than virgin tarmac.

Then of course, there's the selection of loose fasteners, zip-ties etc residing in the Carradice SQR Tour's side pockets. Lived in patina aside, mine's still looking great, 18 years on and is arguably the best option for my (general riding) needs. Big lock, tools, change of clothes/shoes, tubes, food and tooling- easily swallowed.

The only minor consideration is weight distribution. Laden anywhere close to their ten kilo capacity, the SQR and its Carradry cousin  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-carradry    can be something of a handful. That said; it’s a characteristic that I became accustomed to, and accounted for, within a matter of rides.

Back to sprockets...For the time being, I've gone for this 15-tooth, Andel Threaded Cro mo track unit-mounted on the hub's threaded side (obviously). Given these get the lion's share of dodgy water, salt and other detritus, greasing the threads with a suitably stiff grease, is essential. In this instance, I've opted for a ceramic, to avoid galvanic union later on.

I prefer ceramics. Durability and to some extent cleanliness being the main draw. However, a synthetic PTFE fortified prep will be fine, even on Titanium/aluminium interfaces. Old fashioned lithium greases are also fine...Provided you are pairing an aluminium alloy sprocket and hub.

I've also forgone the lock ring- for now. Lock rings are a sensible move. However, I find, even given a liberal greasing, the forces placed upon a fixed transmission, ensures sprockets get wound on very tightly.

Harmonious swoosh restored. I would be interested to try Level Components "bolt on" system, which in theory, should be the most secure going, albeit another demanding dedicated  sprockets.

What I’d expect, from a straight cut, CNC machined example. Bevelled sprockets have their place and tend to be relatively cheap. Hence their popularity on road bikes, converted to fixed. 

Overcast, slightly oppressive humidity has been the climatic theme these past week, or so. Nonetheless, I've managed to get out, and really let my hair down on the Holdsworth. No word from Apeman regarding the sheared A80 casing and mount. For the time being, video falls exclusively to my Tom Tom Bandit, which is beautifully intuitive to use. 

Though slightly quirky, the swoopy Soma Condor drops and Tektro RL520 lever are proving inspired revisions. Revisions offering improved control, both in terms of leverage and braking. The bars shallower drop ensures I can hunker lower than with the pursuit type.

I liked the Highway1 handlebars, too https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars. Another relatively shallow design but one that felt deeper, probably given I was running a TT type lever, at the end. I spend much of my time on "open" roads and relatively quiet lanes. Thus, this voluptuous genre, are a better fit. 

The Tektro RL 520 and Miche dual pivot calliper are a decent marriage, offering lots of controlled bite. Enough power to lift the rear wheel, so not something I'll be looking to upgrade. No call for a rear brake, unless you run a flip-flop (Fixed and freewheel setup) or live in a really mountainous region (at which point, you probably wouldn't be running a fixed, or single speed setup).

Other contemplated revisions, include the Crank Brothers Cobalt 3 seatpost, in favour of this Genetic Syngenic https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-syngenic-seatpost . While I love the Cobalt3's inline design, svelte profile (250g for 400mm, anyone?) I'm less endeared by the single clamp. One that is fiddly to adjust, and more prone to slippage, compared with other designs. Single bolt, or otherwise.   

Aside from the greater leverage/control, wide bars also open the chest cavity, which assists breathing, and of course efficient climbing. Gearing between 76.1 and 81 inches, is arguably bang on, for most road contexts.

https://www.facebook.com/sevenday.cyclist/videos/2068629046766215/

Tall enough for maintaining a steady 20mph, without grinding up the gradients, or spinning out on the descents, like a demented, caffeine-fuelled hamster.  Talking of which, check cleat health regularly. Unplanned disengagement at 25mph plus is a very unwelcome, and potentially painful and expensive experience.  We have become very accustomed to a fantastic system of universal healthcare, here in the UK.

As is to be expected, given its enormity, there are sections of the NHS that would merit improvement, However, the present political administration seems determined to dismantle, in favour of a US-style, insurance-based system.

Combine that with a public happy to share their DNA, in order to "discover their ancestors" and "heritage", it’s not difficult to see how an insurer could test for genetic susceptibility and increase premiums (or indeed, decline insurance for certain conditions). This would also have implications for other things, including mortgages, and related premiums.

Trailer & Transmission Fettling

Well, I've made time to strip the TW Bents Yak homage trailer, ready for some modifying and makeover magic. Disassembly was remarkably straightforward. Once I 'd worked out how the press fitted bushing/bearings were instated. 

I prefer the single wheel designs, since they track with the bike's movement but all systems have their pros, and indeed cons. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tug-jobs 

It was a welcome surprise to discover they'd been treated to some plastic-friendly grease, which assisted their, undamaged extraction. Only modest amounts of controlled force and primal grunting ensued.

Formative discussions with Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating erred toward a chrome effect swing arm, top rail and either a buttermilk (Interpon 610) or  gloss black base/frame. The chrome effect providing some reflective safety, the gloss black timeless, and easy to touch up, as required.  

However, I've since decided that chrome throughout, is the best option.

Keeps things uniform and is arguably the most efficient use of time and other resources.  

Chris was doing some more wet spray work, this time on what appears to be an old De Rosa, and this carbon fork, which will be matt blue, once the lacquer is applied. 

Seems  good quality. mass-produced (26 inch mtb) forks are now rarer than hen's teeth. Given my Univega's design brief, Carbon's a non-starter. A bespoke steel set, was another option. Disc and canti, mudguard and front rack mounts... 

However, while I'm a firm believer in paying skilled people appropriately, there had to be another option. Especially since I was only looking to save a few grams...Lo and behold!  

While rummaging through my spares stash, seeking inspiration, I rediscovered it's original pair. 

The original flamboyant red enamel was showing some cosmetic damage. 

Otherwise, not rot or other nastiness. Crown race liberated, Graham has kindly agreed to blast and refinish them, in gloss black powder coat. Note to self. Mus remind them to soak in methyl chloride tank, as they've been Waxoyled.  Be interesting to see, if  these also sport a nickel plated layer beneath the paint... https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home 

Too much Mad Max, at an impressionable age, perhaps but  I have a quiet appreciation of matt black, and indeed other, slightly distressed effects. Nonetheless, gloss and satins rule my roost. 

A curious rattle, experienced when traversing washboard tarmac suggested my fixed gear winter/trainer's chain needed tensioning again. Closer inspection revealed it was the Halo Fix G Track hub's https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-fixed cassette style lockring. I was surprised by just how loose it was. Note to self! Check more frequently! 

Wheel out, tool in, 40nm torque-sorted. Presented the ideal opportunity to instate the threaded side's cover, along with a light lick of grease. Keeps things looking sleek, and sheltered from grot. I also decided to swap to a Sram chain, since I was about it. 

Nothing wrong with the Passport Elements Single Speed Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai  whatsoever. However, my long term experience suggests it's best for single-speed and hub geared, rather than fixed builds forgoing a rear brake. Especially, if you live/ride in hillier regions.  For many, simplicity is fixed's main draw. 

However, its important to remember the stresses placed upon a fixed setup, doesn't permit sloppy maintenance. For me cheap chain, hubs and sprockets are false economy. I'd still be inclined towards a 1/8th chain- even on 3/32 sprockets.

Despite the persistent, showery conditions I'm still running the Zefal Pro-Dry Chain Lube. Love the low friction, serene swoosh and indeed, its penetrant qualities. It literally seeps into the chain's inner sanctum, which made removing the joining pins, a breeze. 

Not quite so clean-at least compared with long cure, barely there ceramics, including Weldtite TF2 Ultra Dry Chain Wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-ultra-dry-chain-wax ; or indeed Rock n' Roll Absolute Dry Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lubr 

The SRAM does seem a bit meatier, although I'll keep the Passport. According to my digital gauge, it's only a quarter worn, and could still come in handy... Muc-Off sent us some interesting samples of their lubes and polishes, this week. Well, keeps me out of mischief....