Plans & Prep

 

Having done some extensive overhauling and replacement of Ursula’s cockpit and drivetrain, September’s subtle changes encouraged me to scrutinise my fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain components. All seemed basically sound, although the KMC Z510 HX chain was showing signs of fatigue and due its pension, so I switched it for this blue KMC S1. 

A cheap, but hopefully cheerful and relatively quiet replacement. Time and miles will tell. A slightly cheaper chain replaced more frequently is always better than a neglected top draw model, which will chew through more expensive components, or fail, at a critical moment.  

I returned 3,000 miles from the Z510, though I will be suitably pleased to get 1200 from the S1. Not that I’m powerfully built but I don’t run a rear brake, moderating speed by holding off against the cranks. In any case, I have a beefy, half-link HL710 BMX model waiting in the wings, when the S1 starts losing its edge. Back in the late 80’s, when I was riding conversions, 3/32 Sedis and beveled sprockets were my defaults and performed reliably enough, compensating for any slight chain line imprecision. I much prefer beefier track types though.  

Tension is another important consideration. Too little and the chain’s sagging, possibly coming off, sending you down. Too much and aside from being brutally inefficient, accelerating wear also runs the risk of breakage.  

Since we’re on the subject, tough fixed drivetrains are simple, don’t forget to give the sprocket threads a helping of stiff grease periodically to prevent them seizing. They’re easily forgotten but get basted in a fair amount of caustic, slimy cack. 

A few rides in, I then discovered some slop in the Fixed G hub-checked the obvious stuff-track nuts were snug, ditto the sprocket and spacers. Play was definitely coming from the sealed hub bearings. These are Japanese EZO bearing (6000 size) so not something I had readily to hand.  

For the time being, I’ve switched to the Halo deep-section Aerorage wheel, until such time as their replacements arrive and I have time to perform the op. Cursory inspection suggests some specialist tooling, including circlip pliers, which will otherwise be used infrequently, so I may well outsource this to a good local wheel builder while I pursue other projects. 

 

Noticed some minor cuts in the long-serving 35mm section Schwalbe Marathon GT tyre casing. Easily sorted with a quick drop of superglue. Prevention is always more convenient than cure. On a roll, cleats were replaced. The existing fasteners had turned arthritic, though stopped short of seized. Two short blasts of penetrant/freeing oil and trusty 4mm Allen key secured their release. I added a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease to the fasteners.PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

 

Otherwise, I'm making the very most of ambient conditions, enjoying the Teenage Dream’s spirited charms. 

 

The Ravemen CR600 is proving a good companion, albeit with short run times in the highest, 600-lumen setting. Comes with the territory, i.e. typical of compact, high-power lights. That said, output quality is better than I’ve come to expect from mid-power models. Holes and similar hazards are easily spotted from a decent distance and at a reasonable pace.  

However,800 lumens upwards.is a better option for regular/longer distance backroad fun. If you can handle the relative bulk, its 1200lumen cousin is well worth a look. RAVEMEN PR 1200 DUAL LENS FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  Sportive and Audax riders are much better served by dynamo systems, and I’ve been seriously impressed by the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag Dynamo Light K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Rural roads aren’t generally littered with glass and similar sharps, but thorns and hedge clippings can be quite prevalent at certain points of the year. A few miles from home on my dawn blast, I was feeling the stirrings of a very large bowel movement, which was also urging a quicker tempo. Then I felt that ominous up n’ down sinking feeling...Yup, the rear tyre had been slowly bleeding pressure and when I stopped to check, I was down from 130, to 20psi.

   

Inconvenient but spare tube, tyre levers and Lezyne pump meant I was back on the road and racing for the toilet, fearing my bowels might overtake me. Thankfully they didn’t, but it was an uncomfortably close thing. I would’ve got away quicker but was foiled by a faulty CO2 cartridge... 

 

The Case for Compact Lights

 

Generally riding in the arse end of beyond, high power dynamos are my default form of bike lighting, especially during the darker months. Switching Ursula’s superb K-Lite Bike packer UltraK LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for its Bikepacker Pro V2K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cousin was something of an inspired decision. I am totally smitten with the K-lite family of dynamo lights. The Bikepacker Ultra is the most potent but the Pro V2’s bijous profile has freed up a surprising amount of useable handlebar space, without a tangible loss of performance.  

Nonetheless, compact, mid power lights certainly have their place.  

Clutter-phobic best/sunny day’s machines are the most obvious. These might not see dark, greasy, salty wet roads but often enjoy late summer playtimes, where dusk can sneak up on us. Blinkies are the obvious weapons of choice but dusk and beyond calls for something more potent. The sort that can be navigated by.  

This Ravemen CR600 is a case in point, hence why it’s now adorning the Teenage Dream’s bars (although photographed on my fixed gear winter trainer). As the name implies, it pumps out a maximum of 600lumens and tapers down to 300, 150 and 50lumens, with two flashing modes for good measure. Now, in keeping with this genre of light, run times in the highest settings. 1hour 20 minutes or so, in this instance.  

However, Ravemen lights have some particularly nice, innovative touches, including the ability to plug “power bank” type auxiliary supply to buy some more time, should the integral battery tank. Ravemen also offers a wired “remote” button for easy mode changes on the fly.  

Even along pitch black lanes, 600 lumens provide decent presence but if your training run/commute involves navigating longer sections of unlit roads, 1000lumens would be my benchmark. Lumens are only part of the story though- lens and reflector quality are equally important. Ravemen LR500S Front Light is a prime example of this RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) . 

Compact lights can also make good companions and backups for dynamo systems. Even with the K-Lite units, I like to have a blinky on the go and though problems with high-end, high-power dynamo systems are rare, should something unexpected happen, you’ve got backup. Besides, a little torch type model is useful for tackling punctures, diagnosing strange noises, rummaging through luggage etc. Models, such as Moon Meteor Vortex are less compact but have replaceable batteries . 

This has two advantages, the most obvious being that the light isn’t necessarily bin fodder when the battery is. However, it also means you can carry a couple of fully charged spares and slip them in, to extend ride times. Prior to the Ravemen, I had been running the Moon Meteor.  

A very discrete unit delivering 400 lumens in top but with a, attention-grabbing 500 lumen daylight flash. 400 lumens are more than adequate for those afternoons, or early mornings when dusk and dawn are en route and presence is called for. Talking of presence, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the Brightside Bright, Amber & Sideways BRIGHTSIDE BRIGHT, AMBER & SIDEWAYS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Look closely and you’ll notice I’ve pensioned off the Teenage Dream’s tri bar wrap in  favour of the remnants of Velo Orange Rubbery bar Tape. Knew I’d find a use for it and in this instance, it was literally made to measure.  

The Ritchey wrap had served faithfully for several years but was starting to look tired in places and I knew the Velo Orange would upgrade damping and grip. Not that I ride on the Tri Bars for extended distances and, but these Cinelli Mini Sub 8 Aero Extensions are suitably unobtrusive, while still offering decent shelter from the wind.  

Talking of the Teenage Dream, it’s now 31 years since the original build and It marked my transition to adulthood, and mirroring myself, has evolved progressively since.  

Aside from some fond memories of tractor racing and philosophising with friends on balmy summer rides (talking about women, essentially), I don’t reflect fondly on this period of my life, or the 90s, generally. 

There were definite, tangible achievements, some lessons learned, and significant people met but equally, some very dark and austere times. There is nothing to be gained from living in the past. Learn from it, take only those of genuine significance and continue forward along the winding road.