Bicycle Aikido

 

During the long and sometimes very hot summer of 1987, I acquired a copy of Bicycling Magazine’s Bicycle Repair. The opening chapter discussed Bicycle Aikido, which though a gross oversimplification, basically meant working with, rather than against components. Working things out and using appropriate force. Knowing how to hold the bike and tools correctly, for best effect. If you feel resistance, back off, if it’s coming together nicely, go with the flow.

Obviously, things like torque wrenches are far more prevalent, affordable to most home mechanics, so reduce the likelihood of component damage. That is, if they’re used correctly and with similar mechanical sympathy. I thought I’d long since consigned my copy to charity shops, or similar outlet. I was pleasantly surprised to discover it nestling between some other cycling publications from that decade, including Richard Balantine’s.

Black and white photographs, straightforward instructions/guidance. So straightforward, it led thirteen-year-old me, armed only with a spoke key into a false sense of security. I successfully turned a very minor wibble into a wildly wandering wheel. Fast forward 39 years and I’d been doing a fair bit of dirt road exploration aboard Ursula-one that led to me discovering a rave at 1030 in the morning, not to mention a chance encounter with Spiderman.  By this point, I’d reached my conclusions regarding Topeak’s Handleloc system and fancied quicker passage across metalled roads, so switched to Denise.

On one particularly hot afternoon, I decided it would be prudent to apply some Juice Lubes Slick Juice to the USE seat post and Hollowtech II axle. Two easy little jobs-regular “while I think of it” greasing keeps things mobile and happy. I found one of the pinch bolts unexpectedly arthritic, so gave that a more generous lick of grease and snugged both to 13nm, rather than the maximum 14. Seatpost removed, I took the opportunity to blast some more corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube. Given temperatures exceeded thirty degrees, this would flow beautifully around the frames’ inner sanctum and cure rapidly.

Though friction is palpably lower than traditional greases when spinning the cranks, I’m not sure whether the Slick Juice is neck and neck with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, but I’ll reserve judgement for now. Will be interesting to compare their staying prowess, too. For context, I’ve needed to replenish Peaty’s Speed Grease every six months, rather than the 9-12 typical of stout lithium-based formulas.

Personally, I find partial stripping and re-greasing more convenient than wholesale, annual tear downs. However, I prioritise a stodgy, hell n’ high water blend for headsets and contact points-at least on winter bikes, mountain bikes, tourers and others serving in more challenging conditions.

Following on from my comments about subtle stockpiling of consumables, someone waved a KMC Z1 EPT chain under my nose along with some replacement Shimano pattern cleats-both at very favourable prices, so I snapped them up.  Chances are the Z1 EPT will replace the fixed’s Z5 come November when conditions will be wintrier and the Z5 will be due its pension. Staying with chains a moment, I’m still very impressed that the All Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax’s temperature stability, even when temperatures have been in the mid to high thirties.

No gooeyness, nor does it transfer readily to hands and a consistent 250- 280 miles per application is similarly impressive by wax standards (150-180 miles is more typical) in generally arid conditions and allowing for the odd showery interval. I’m hopeful these qualities will increase drivetrain life, longer term and am planning on defaulting to it until October, unless conditions dictate otherwise.  

Sometimes the best products are the ones we default to, simply because they perform well and let us enjoy the ride. I am privately something of an obsessive, I’m intrigued by how stuff works, performance gains, that sort of thing but they’re the last thing I’d want to discuss during a ride, save for a casual aside, café’ stop break etc.

Other people’s machines, the human element, the stories behind them etc, yes, but I wouldn’t want the duration of a ride, or conversation to be rooted in component choice, or technical specifications.  Much the same goes for motorcycles, photography, and anything else I’m involved with.

Some technical chat is absolutely fine and often very relevant but quickly becomes tedious if it's someone’s only line of curiosity, or conversation. Then again, I’ve never needed to be centre of attention, nor do I talk about myself, although I am consistently told that I am intriguing and maybe I like that air of mystery…I’ll close here with my review of the Topeak Pannier Drybag 16 Litre The Topeak Pannier Dry Bag 16 litre | cycling-not-racing  and Castelli  Ultimate Sun Protection UPF Jersey The Castelli Ultimate Sun Protection UPF | cycling-not-racing

 

 

 

 

The Summer of Wax

 

I’ve been defaulting to wax lubes through spring and testing aside; this is likely to continue through into early autumn. Murphey's law has seen conditions take another dramatic change. It was now wetter than the proverbial Haddock's underpants- great for my crops but not conditions where waxes traditionally excel. I'm sticking with them for now, since I have several blends and they generally speaking, attract minimal dirt, thus extending the useful life of chains, cassettes, derailleurs and rings.

 After 130 miles, upon returning from the morning’s meander, Denise’s KMC chain was beginning to look thirsty. I went to retrieve the KMC GO but then wondered if two loosely similar waxes would prove chemically compatible. This would also allow me to use up the remaining Weldtite Wax Weldtite Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing.

 Just before drizzling into every link, I noticed a large sludgy kernel clinging to the Tiagra mech's jockey wheel, so scooped that away using this BBB chain gauge first- another strangely satisfying job.  

Gunk purged, I shook the Weldtite Wax bottle again, popped the spout and dropped into every link, spun the cranks to ensure even penetration and left curing. Twenty-five wet miles, I wasn’t surprised to discover the chain had turned a scuzzy, dark grey.

I hoped the wax had just arrested contaminant and wasn’t becoming a grinding paste. Though waxes are renown for cleanliness, if traces of an oil-based lubricant are left on the chain, the two formulas will trap grit, leading to accelerated drivetrain wear. Mercifully, the KMC and Weldtite seem mutually compatible, grime scabbing away during the next twenty-mile outing, leaving a protective film behind.  

I'd also reached that tipping point where an idea was becoming the ONLY idea-namely replacing the 2x10 Deore for a 3x10- I was looking to upgrade too, to an XT. Mercifully, I was able to talk myself out of this burgeoning obsession by reminding myself that doing so would require a longer rear mech-additional and moreover, unnecessary expense. The most cost-effective upgrade if I was going for a new mech would be a 38, or 40 tooth big ring and a 12-34 cassette. Not a triple. 

The latest generation of gravel “mullet” drivetrains on gravel builds is, for me, very reminiscent of those found on mid-late 80’s mountain bikes. Not the freewheels, rather the derailleur cage length. Cages were hanging perilously low to the ground. In fact, in some circles, it seemed the lower you’re cage, er, hung, the better. This also prompted a swing to using short cage road mechs. However, this proved rather short-lived, once many became the casualties of rocks and off road’s general rough n’ tumble.

Continuing this waxy theme, Extra UK has kindly sent me this All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Chain Wax. Developed and manufactured in Barcelona, it claims to be an all-season’s lube. One promising smooth, clean, durable performance in dry to damp conditions. I’m looking forward to putting it to the test. In common with most waxes, it demands a surgically clean drivetrain first time round and emerges from the spout as a faint blue. A visual clue as to how much you’ve applied. Curing times are in terms of hours, so I’d leave overnight, where possible.

Extra also sent me some nice goodies from Topeak. Racks have fallen a little out of vogue in general terms, thanks in part to the popularity of gravel and bikepacking luggage. I’m fond of both, neither are better than the other, just more appropriate in certain contexts. Continuing this theme, I’ve always been fond of Topeak’s Quick Track System-the refinement and security specifically. I first encountered it back in 2009, but at the time commented the only drawback was the system specific design.

However, Topeak has since extended the appeal by offering a Quick Track plate as a retrofittable option. I was keen to see how that would perform with the M Part Summit Rear Rack M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing and Topeak’s MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing .

Finally, we’ve Topeak’s Drybag Pannier. This one’s the smaller, 16 litre version, but there’s a 24-litre sibling, should you prefer.  Sonically welded TPU construction and roll top closure bode well for keeping stuff bone dry and a 10-kilo payload is similarly reassuring. Mounting hardware is another thing that can make, or indeed, break otherwise decent luggage.

Rixen Kaul has long been the benchmark when it comes to reliable, user-friendly mounting hardware. Topeak’s in-house handle lock system is a spring-loaded system that works to a similar principle -pull the handle upward to release, press down onto the rack and it will click into place. The lower foot is also tool free and really easy to adjust, say when switching between bikes.  A single compartment is cavernous but potentially blessing and curse- depending on what and how you are packing.