More Locks, More Lubes

These Schwalbe Lugano, have seen me switch to the skinny tubed charms of the “teenage dream”; a machine that I am still deeply endeared to, 26 years later. I corrected its builder’s disappointing quality control back in 2009. Poor reaming, egg-shell enamel and runny brazing, the most obvious, visual weak spots.

Clearance with mudguards can still present the occasional challenge but otherwise, I can ride, polish and enjoy. Seven Day Cyclist recently did a short haul (225miles) summer test of Muc-Off hydrodynamic chain lube. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-hydro-dynamic-chain-lube

Developed in conjunction with team Sky, we were expecting something special and weren’t disappointed. Ingredients are cold wear secret, although and despite the 4hour curing time, I was surprised to discover we’re not talking petrochemical stock.

Nonetheless, use and store away from animals and children and don gloves if you are prone to dermatitis. The distinctive blue colour and extended spout, means most folks won’t have any problems achieving a consistent, even application.

However, there’s a UV torch for the last word in precision. Given my working fixed and teenage dream’s existing preps were thinning, I’ve stripped both in favour of the hydrodynamic and will see just how many miles can be racked up per application.

Muc-Off cite 400, which doesn’t sound particularly impressive, when cheap as chips, bog standard mineral oil/PTFE blends will return 200 in less intense conditions. However, we are talking an approximate, overall, four season’s mileage.

Staying with lubes, the Green Oil Eco-Spray also lived up to its promises https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube Comparison with a traditional, heavy duty PTFE based spray is fairest. In its present guise, there are better options for those seeking to flush cables, or waterlogged blinkies through. It’s also twice the price of some very capable, store branded maintenance sprays.

I’ve been impressed with its staying prowess, versatility and overall economy.

Not so long ago you had to choose between performance and planet friendly. The latter have closed the gap, especially when it comes to light-middleweight lubes, degreasers and bike washes.

One thing that hasn’t improved is bike theft. So long as there is a market for stolen bikes, it’s going to remain a serious problem. On one level, all good security does is buy time. The longer it takes for a thief to work, the more noise they make, the greater the likelihood of them being caught.  

Conversely, security is only as strong as its weakest link. A properly deployed mid-range lock is more effective than a high-rent model used badly.

Ideally, a lock will have done its job as a visual deterrent, a would-be thief considers it too much hassle, so walks on by, looking for easier pickings. Pros in particular are looking to be away in the proverbial 60- seconds. Reality is, that passing strangers are not about to challenge someone wielding a portable angle grinder!

Talking of portability, it’s worth taking two different approaches. One when locking in the street, another at home. General riding, say on a road biased mtb hybrid, I’ve erred toward several kilos of armoured chain and disc combination. Usually reinforced with another, short shackle U lock for the front wheel.

Other people will opt for a series of high quality locking bolts to secure front wheel and expensive components, and a medium shackle U lock, deployed to thwart tools. Whatever your preference, expect to spend 10% of the machine's retail value i.e. £900 should be secured with a £90 lock.

That's assuming you don't have a deep, emotional attachment to the machine and components. Rightful owners will be able to tell the story behind (pretty much) every nick, chip or minor scratch.

Pros with vans are a different entity, since they can haul an arsenal of tools-unimpeded but the average “street walker” usually comes tooled up for one system, or the other.

Using two types is likely to see them scurrying along without stopping. With this in mind, I’ve just been sent these competitively priced, gold rated sold secure locks from On Guard www.todayscyclist.co.uk .

The 8001 Brute STD U lock retails at £54.99, which is pretty competitive for the level of protection and overall specification. The 8019 Mastiff chain lock retails at £65.99 and features a titanium reinforced hexagonal link chain, which supposedly rules out sawing and other, mechanised cutting techniques.

The short shackle also makes life harder for the light fingered. We’ll see how they are to live with, before the final, destruction testing. Stay tuned.             

Rub a Dud Hub......Shifting the Seized Sprocket

Well, despite herculean efforts, primal grunting and copious amounts of penetrant spray, the EAI Gold Medal Premium sprocket was right royally stuck.  Thankfully, John was around that morning, so I dashed down, inbred hub in hand. Locked within his vice, the usual, measured force was applied.

Extra long, custom brewed chain whips, hammer and punch shifted the lock-ring. Persuading the sprocket free ultimately lead to intelligently engineered force.

Having established the hub was at the end of its long and useful life, we donned ear defenders and he cuts the opposite flange square with his angle grinder. Flat flanges are easily gripped within the vice jaws, making lock-ring and sprocket extraction that bit easier...In theory. Practice proved a bit more involved...

The former required some blunt persistence, from his hammer and punch. A gentle tinkling as it bounced across the floor announced successful liberation.

Launching the final assault, John grabs his prodigious, home brewed chain whip and wraps it anaconda fashion around my prized, titanium oxide coated stainless steel sprocket. Starting gently, he steadily increases the pressure, working counter clockwise until it eases free-mission complete!

A reminder to strip, inspect and re-grease components regularly, especially those under a lot of force and in the firing line of dodgy water. John was trained by his father to strip his bikes on a monthly basis.

The argument is very persuasive. From a mechanic’s perspective, it enables easy evaluation of component health and any potential problems to be blitzed before bigger problems present.

Team mechanics will perform this at the end of each stage race, given the money and potential losses at stake.  Seasonal strips are arguably the best balance, especially on bikes seeing hard service. When testing really “stiff” greases etc, I may exceed this.

Given the amount of waxy frame preserve sloshing around inside my frames, bottom brackets and seatposts will usually relent with nominal effort-even after 12months or so. Fixed transmissions are low maintenance.

Beyond keeping an eye on tension and drizzling lube on the chain, sprockets are usually forgotten, until replacement, or some other remedial work needs doing.

White Lightning Crystal grease, as used on the Halo hub threads was my default. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease 

However, I’d managed to misplace the tube in all this excitement. Hence, the new hub threads received a liberal basting of Park PPL1.

Galvanic corrosion (where metals of different parentage seize) is to be avoided, at all costs. Lessons have been re-enforced, so I vow to strip, inspect and replenish every three months. Watch this space... https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/wheel-building-part-one-theory-and-

Otherwise some rim tape and a 30mm tyre later, we are ready for road testing.  John reckons there might be some bedding in and spoke stretch during the formative miles. Frankly, this is to be expected and will necessitate another quick tweak on the jig but nothing out of the ordinary.  A bit like rot around Mk1 KA filler caps...          

By The Lorry Load

With temperatures creeping into the low 30’s, I’ve been re-bonding with my multi-colour fixed gear along the rapidly melting lanes.

Two full trade bottles maintaining my hydration levels and this UPSO stirling seat pack holding its essentials-tubes, tools and other essentials. Serendipity brought me a white/green version, which blends surprisingly well with the builds’ increasingly hap-hazard, yet strangely endearing colour scheme.   

So, the UPSO Stirling...Measuring 20x9cm, its part of a luggage range, made by hand, on solar powered sewing machines, using high quality recycled materials.  

The main fabric is Lorry tarpaulin, the zipper tags are fashioned from off cuts of fire-hose. Tethering to seatposts via an easily replaceable toe strap and stocky Velcro straps isn’t the only option either. 

I’ve combined ours with this passport frequent flyer wedge pack. The frequent flyer is made from a surprisingly hardy 600d codura nylon, which also moulds compliantly around the Cane Creek Thudbuster ST post.

The frequent flyer is another single compartment model designed to swallow the essentials-multi tool, spare tube, tyre levers, CO2 inflator etc. Efficient packers should be able to slip two 700x25c tubes plus the other basics without straining the zipper. Velcro straps might not be the sleekest arrangement but is as near universal as you’ll get.

The main reason why I’ve bar mounted the stirling boils down to my Pedros’ trixie tool. I mislaid/lost my Cool Tool which, though limited in terms of Allen keys, was blessed with a high quality adjustable/cone wrench with chain tool on the reverse.

It was also surprisingly compact, whereas the trixie favours leverage. Lock rings and similarly torque dependent tasks. It will just sneak inside the Stirling without causing mischief but prevents the tarp from forming a compatible arc.

Sway is one of those things that drive me (and many others) nuts. Thankfully, both tether very tightly, so a moot point.

Approaches to LED tabs are very different. Passport has taken the semi rigid plastic, UPSO the more traditional, webbed nylon strap route.

Both seem good, practical hosts to bigger blinkies and given the UPSO’s present location, compact commuter lights packing 200-350lumens.

The Stirling commands £30, which isn’t cheap but very reasonable when the cost of skilled, UK labour is factored into the equation. I also love the fact that otherwise scrap materials have been used to create a high quality product. 

Detailing is equally sharp where it isn’t so obvious. The zipper is highly water repellent, rather than proof but I haven’t noticed any ingress when tickling it provocatively, at close range using a high pressure hose.

That said; even taped and welded seams aren’t 100% waterproof. I’ve been known to line expedition panniers with refuse/garden waste sacks on really wet commutes, or weekend mtb excursions.

It’ll be a few weeks and several hundred miles in changeable weather before I approach any definite conclusions but thus far I’m certainly warming to it.  Elsewhere, in spite of the heat, John Moss has built; tensioned and trued the replacement, Mavic wheel to a meticulously high standard.

Characteristic of his generation of craft trained engineers; he is perfectionist in his approach and seeks to continuously improve a design or concept. Given I am not particularly heavy-in terms of weight, or riding style and the bike’s function, he seems confident  the tension and two-cross spoke pattern should prove reliable.

Next stage is coaxing that EAI sprocket free from the defunct Inbred hub threads, remembering a carpet of high quality grease (not to mention yearly replenishments)  rim tape and a 30mm section tyre.

Then I’ll start running it in. Mavic recommend sections between 19 and 28mm but I’m confident a couple of millimetres won’t cause any mischief. That said; despite the trend for increasingly large volumes, I wouldn’t chance anything wider.       

Tart's Handbag?

 

Spare cone cum spacer arrived for the Halo Aerotrack hub, so I wasted no time in drizzling some green oil eco grease on the threads and winding it home. After a bit of deliberation, I opted to run the Titanium sprocket, checking this had a generous helping of waterproof synthetic grease.

Sat between it and the hub’s aluminium alloy threads. In this instance I’ve gone for White Lightning crystal grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  which seems particularly dependable. However, given this bike serves year round, I will be inspecting more frequently than those adorning the On-one Inbred hub. Remiss of me.

Seems the right hand EAI sprocket and lockring have formed a particularly stubborn union with the aluminium alloy hub threads.  I’ve tried liberal marinades of high quality penetrant/release sprays before introducing lockring spanners, chain whips and primal grunting. Nope, won’t budge. So I’ve put it down and will revisit when inspiration strikes.

Where possible, I like to keep components going-if they’re basically in good order but I’m beginning to wonder-if I’m going the wheel build route, salvage might be false economy. The last thing I want is a freshly built wheel, only for the hub to conk out in spectacular fashion shortly afterward!

So, I am researching alternatives. System EX units were nicely executed budget options, though it’s not clear if they’re still in production. Three times the price but Surly also produce some nice small flange double fixed hubs with more sophisticated bearings…Nonetheless, in the meantime, I’m relieved I held on to the Halo and will make very good use of it.

Staying on the subject of lubes and other fluid tooling, Green Oil have sent us their new Ecospray lube. PTFE and petrochemical free. PTFE (often known as Teflon), was discovered by accident in the 1930s are remains pretty ubiquitous. Not just in engineering applications either; non-stick cooking utensils, carpets and socks being three that immediately spring to mind.

On the plus side, Teflon lubes and greases are cheap, surprisingly effective and reasonably durable. However, it’s not kind to organic/aquatic life and is widely thought to be connected to heart, thyroid and lung conditions.

Repacking hub bearings, headsets, pedals and bottom bracket threads every few months and doing so eight hours a day, 5/6 days every week for thirty years present two very different levels of risk.

The same goes for classic car/motorcycle enthusiasts and professional mechanics, when talking exposure to swarf and other carcinogens found in used motor oil.

I wear latex/similar examination gloves when working with petrochemicals. I must admit that I’m not so fastidious when giving cables and mechanisms a quick squirt, or lubricating chains.  

 So then, to the maintenance spray.

Well, I wasn’t surprised to learn the stock is that, used in their wet chain lube. However, achieving the spray-able consistency requires a greater ratio of plant based solvent.

Some folks will argue that butane/propane propellant put a dent in the eco-friendly credentials but I’m assure quantities involved present minimal impact to environment and user alike.

So far, I’ve used it on the teenage dream’s Regina freewheel, cleat mechanisms and assorted brake cables. The rich yellowy layer could almost pass for a heavyweight PTFE potion, the sort that will, in a pinch double as a summer chain lube. Several weeks and more varied use should give a better indication of its strengths and, where appropriate, weaknesses/limitations.

 

Search & Rescue

Wheel on the jig, we were surprised by how wobbly it had become and there was clear evidence of a flat-spot. A few deft tweaks later, it was running true. Back home, tyre and tube reinstated, I introduced a modest 85psi and the rim literally warped before my eyes.

Seconds later, the 30mm Vee Rubber tyre followed suit and I was powerless to stop the tube exploding. The long serving and otherwise, ultra-reliable DN6 hoop was completely spent. It had served almost 12years faultlessly and only been trued twice in that time, so owed me nothing.

Buying a like for like replacement was an obvious, indeed sensible default. However, money was committed to other things and therefore, in short supply... 

Then I remembered I’d stashed a 32-hole Mavic Open Pro rim somewhere...

A few minutes’ foraging unearthed the hoop from behind some tyres. Having double checked it was a 32 hole; I brewed a sudsy bucket, grabbed my favourite brush and tickled the rim clean.  

The double sided inbred hub remains in rude health Even if the spokes were of correct length, reusing them would’ve been false economy, so I cut the hub free in a matter of minutes, using a small set of bolt croppers. 

John Moss has very kindly offered to build me a new wheel, provided I supply the correct components.

I also recalled having a set of Halo Aerotrack wheels doing something close to nothing. The Aero track in question are eight years old and weigh almost 1 kilo apiece. However, they are very stiff and strong.

I don’t run a rear, lever activated brake on fixed set ups, so the non-machined sidewall works fine for me and the fluro green powder coating is of decent quality. Despite the track label, the super smooth, double sided hubs are well-sealed from the elements. I may strip and service them with Green Oil Eco grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test   

Mine seemed to be missing a cone and integral spacer on one side, so I emailed their UK importer. Ison Distribution www.ison-distribution.com Lloyd responded promptly, some photographs were shared and he graciously offered to send replacements in the post, which I gladly accepted. His generosity didn’t end here.

For the Mavic build, I needed to calculate spoke lengths. Some online research unearthed a very user-friendly database cum calculator. Entering the rim and hub combo, it came back with 282mm, based upon a 2 cross lacing pattern.

Once upon a time 3 X was the default, 4 for heavily laden touring but since 1990, 2X has ruled the roost-for general road, or trail duties. Having spotted Halo spokes this length and in black, I approached Lloyd to check he had stock. He did and moreover, generously donated 32 along with the hub components!

While I await their arrival, I’ve plucked the Teenage Dream from seasonal hibernation. Bikes with complete, period groupsets are nice and I can appreciate truly original builds. However, it’s not my particular route.

Mine are either built, or evolve to suit me. Hailing from 1991, I have upgraded to more modern cockpit, fork and dual pivot brakes are for me at least, a marked improvement upon the originals. Some would say it’s ironic that I haven’t replaced the early 80’s 6speed Campagnolo mechs.

Sentiment aside, they’re in great shape, the machine isn't raced and I like the present blend. Wellgo SPDR pattern pedals may also offend some folks but I find recessed cleats are more practical. Then of course, their smaller surface area entertains more spirited cornering.

Dancing up the climbs, the old fashioned, tubing and lugged construction might feel a bit whippy around the bottom bracket region but it still delivers a responsive and engaging ride. Some would dub it a real mongrel, others a Heinz57. I say, my machine and just as I like it.              

Carbon Fibre Repair

I headed down to Carbon Bike Repair in Leatherhead. A fascinating visit that dispelled many of the myths surrounding composites. Not least, their capacity for successful, permanent and moreover, cost-effective repair. You can read the full feature here https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/a-visit-to-carbon-fibre-bike-repair .

I was surprised to learn that 99% of damage is repairable on a good-as-new basis and yes, that includes dropouts. Obviously, economics are a determining factor.

Basic repair starts at £80, which is viable on a set of forks blades costing £300. Not so, a set commanding £100, let alone a £35 seat post with aluminium head.

This TT frameset was involved in a particularly gruesome collision with a car. One which ultimately claimed the rider’s arm and broke the frameset into 27 pieces. A bystander had painstakingly salvaged these, placing them in a bag.  

Ultimately, Rob’s team were able to piece it (including the fork!) back together. Rigorously and meticulously tested, it is structurally sound, the rider recovered and returned to racing. Perhaps unsurprisingly, they bought a new frameset and gifted this one to CBR.

Their 2pack paintwork is of phenomenally high standard too. However, there wasn’t a safe opportunity for me to capture this being applied, on account of the paints’ cyanide components. Another reason why manufacturers/refinishers seldom offer little bottles of touch up paint these days.

Shortly afterward, I headed north to work on unrelated photographic assignments, which also coincided with Coventry’s motofest. Oh and a commercial quality TIG welder with AC/DC settings…

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) is another welding technology that came about in the 1940s and a good alternative to oxyacetylene. It’s also credited with making aluminium and magnesium credible choices for structural works.

Much greater skill is required compared with MIG and the Arc’s intensity is also significantly higher; hence a grade 10 shield/setting and gloves are a must. However, the relatively slow, precise nature rewards with much cleaner, slag-free welds.

It can be used at any position and with the correct shielding gas, is highly suited to titanium and Cro-moly steels. Little wonder how it became so widely used in frame and component construction.

My involvement? All will be revealed another time…

Talking of TIG welded frames; having re-greased the Ilpompino’s headset and seat post, all was buttery smooth and serene. While hustling along the lanes this morning, my internal processes were shattered by a high-pitched “baaaaaaaaaaang!” This was swiftly accompanied by a shimmy; my senses screaming with alarm.

The rear tyre had rolled from the rim. Closer inspection revealed the tube wall had failed- caused by fatigue, rather than foreign object. Thankfully, fresh butyl and Lezyne Micro-floor pump https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/lezyne-micro-floor-pump spared my blushes.

The latter is capable of delivering a road credible 100psi fairly swiftly with only moderate, mere mortal effort. I limped home at 15mph with a wobbly rear hoop. That’ll be a trip to my friendly, local wheel builder tomorrow morning!