Derriere Delight & Rapid Chain Consumption

 

Having switched saddles and riding conditions milder and wetter, I switched to Muffin and some fixed gear serenity before things flip flopped again. Reunited with the titanium railed Spa Aire, I was delighted with the comfort but also noted some slight slip with these Castelli Competizone Bib Tights Castelli Competizione Men’s Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing- the case with the Ergon it replaces.

With another snowy blast on the horizon, I switched Ursla from the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing to Schwalbe’s Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing. Wheels in situ, I then decided a chain check was opportune- .75 when I introduced my more basic, nickel-plated tool. Bin fodder either way.

I had two in stock, so no issues on that front. Simply brake, prune the new and click into place with the magic link. Now was also the opportunity to expel some gunge clinging to the jockey wheels and lighter grime adorning the rings. Something also prompted me to check Denise’s KMC- said nickel-plated gauge also slid straight to .75.

Again, an easy fix, and chance to strip some residual gunk from the jockey wheels, cage and rings.  Both chains had been fed the Muc Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing . This also serves to illustrate how persistent exposure to waterlogged roads, mucky lanes, trails and of course snow and salt rapidly consume drivetrains-even with disciplined cleaning and light lubrication. Denise’s chain was only replaced in November. I subscribe to the philosophy of buying less exotic chains, since they still return a reasonable mileage and are relatively kind on the wallet when replacement’s due. Same goes for cassettes.

Rings should be fine, so long as you’re not lax when it comes to replacing chains. However, there’s an argument for investing in stainless steel, rather than 6061 aluminium alloy rings. At least on a tourer, or other bikes that do big mileages year-round. Mercifully, the Deore FC M5100 fitted to Ursula and Denise are steel, which adds a few grams but theoretically repays with improved durability.

Again, Deore is often regarded as entry-level, but the specification and performance are still very impressive. Back in the 1990s, I had high regard for Shimano’s STX & RC components, good enough for racing, but affordable and economic to replace, should you bend something beyond repair in a crash.  They key with all these things is to keep repairs, replacements and upgrades practical. Unless a gift, or passed to you at an incredibly favourable rate, bolting high end CNC machined rings on lower to mid-range cranks makes no sense.      

All this also serves as solid argument for running a fixed, or single speed steed as a primary winter bike. One ideally with full length mudguards (fenders). That said, fixed and single speed drivetrains are low maintenance, decent sprockets and chains are key, since they’re under a fair bit of strain and that’s before you throw the witches brew of wet, salt, grit and similar nasties into the mix.

Without doubt, the best sprocket I’ve ever run was EAI Superstar- a beautifully machined, highly polished stainless-steel affair commanding £45. EAI also offer a less exotic steel stablemate for £25. One that arguably strikes the best balance of value and performance on a working, or training bike.

I’m also suitably impressed by the Andel Fixed Sprocket (1/8 17tooth) fitted to Muffin. I’m not a fan of electroplating per se. I appreciate it looks pretty but I don’t like the process and acids involved. Nonetheless, Muffin’s seems to be holding up very well against the elements and offers a winter, knee friendly ratio of 67.5.

Great for a smooth, struggle-free cadence, but without going into overdrive on the descents.  As for chains, I’ve had surprisingly good results from budget KMC, such as the Z510, their higher end stainless counterparts, not to mention, the Gusset S Link and thus far, this Izumi. Once upon a time, while riding conversions I ran 3/32 Sedis, but it’s been 1 1/8^th track fare all the way since I took advantage of fixed’s resurgence in 2005.    

 

 

Chilly Charms & Sudden Thaws

 

Conditions became wintrier as January unfolded and I was relieved I'd left the Schwalbe Marathon Winter mounted to Denise's wheels meaning I could just hop on, relax and enjoy the ride, despite the icy stretches. I decided to switch the Selle Royal Respiro for the WTB Rocket WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing . The Respiro served me well for the best part of 13 years and I wondered whether the foam matrix was beginning to lose its memory around the rear.  It also heralded the return of these “lobster” gloves, since wind chill had brought the air temperatures considerably lower than minus 6.

Warmth is a definite plus but there’s trade off on the dexterity front, which can dictate their removal when bag rummaging, multi tool wielding and other tasks requiring fine motor skills. These link two fingers together, so allows me sufficient freedom to operate a compact camera, adjust a zipper etc. Better than the mitten type, but still comparatively limited.  For this reason, I also pack a set of liners, or middleweight gravel types, should I need to tackle a flat, or similar.

Considerations aside, they are blissful for otherwise bitterly cold midwinter outings. Blessed with a generous thatch, I tend to default to a water repelling, breathable cap such as this Showers Pass Elite SHOWERS PASS ELITE CYCLING CAP | cycling-not-racing. However, when il fait froid, I reach for another old favourite, the “Belgian” style cycling cap, which has served me well for around twelve winters.

These are characterised by better coverage and protection to the ears and a slightly thicker, sometimes fleecy inner fabric. I reach for mine once the air temperature hovers around zero, or the wind chill drags it into minus figures. Higher and I find the breed a little too toasty for my tastes.  The Sidi Algor Sidi Algor MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing have proven themselves extremely temperate when the mercury’s dipped to minus 6. Not that I’ve had any issues with Shimano’s mighty MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing in similar contexts, but the Algor are slightly toastier.

The Zefal Shield G50 guards continue to impress with their capacity for keeping crappy stuff off myself and Denise.  Aside from a weekly, judicious check of the Velcro, I've not needed to give them a second thought. I've also been pleased by Ursula's new front mudguard.

Though less elegant than the Mudhugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing and similar designs, its simple and offers good coverage to rider and machine without risk of clogging. How it will fare longer term, when the glop, UV light, heat and cold have done their worst, remains to be seen.

Mudguards, though a valuable defence are no substitute for regular cleaning. When the gritters have been out, give bikes regular washes, starting with a cold rinse to flush away the corrosive contaminant (hot will only accelerate the caustic process) before going for the warm sudsy bucket and brushes.  

There’s a lot of discussion around bike washes- in the Marmite sense. Some really like them, other folks loathe them, citing them as money for old rope. I sit somewhere in the middle. Salty season aside, I like those which can applied direct to the bike i.e. without having to get the bike wet first- scrub and rinse.

Otherwise, I default to good quality car wash n’ wax type formulas, which will gobble the grime, while leaving a light wax barrier behind. Obviously, this can’t compare with a decent quality hard paste, or fluid formula, but does offer some defence. Great for when time and daylight are at a premium.  

In a matter of days, ice and snow gave way to flooding, so it made sense to switch to Ursula for a bit, and I was also curious to see how well the new front mudguard performed when it came to waterlogged lanes. Suitably impressed, it made a huge difference to my comfort, although they’re arguably perfect for 1.9 section rubber. Glad I’d donned the Shimano MW702.

Managed to get the Blackburn Atom4 to play nicely with minimal effort. A shot of PTFE free spray on the sensors contacts and decent quality CR2025 cells seem to address the intermittent connectivity issues. The smaller frameset places the head unit and sensor in closer proximity, which probably helps.   

More Bars & Bargains

 

No, not the sort licenced to sell intoxicating liquors. The quiet of Christmas is very welcome and without fail, results in bike-related revisions- whether it's midwinter maintenance- wholesale cable replacement, rings, chains etc, or more specific upgrades.

The festive season can also give rise to expensive flights of fancy- framesets, fork(s), groupsets- unplanned stuff that seems like a great idea in the moment but can contribute to the January fiscal hangover.  

 I turned my attentions to bars. While generally very attached to the WTB Dirt Drops, I find the drop and reach slightly off- too long and deep. It’s worth noting that I am broad across the shoulders but proportionally short in the torso, so getting the front end blissful can require some trial and error. Bike fits are an excellent investment and certainly reduce the guesswork.

Given both the Soma Condor TEST: SOMA CONDOR HANDLEBAR and WTB “in stock” there wasn’t any outlay, just experimentation. I wanted to continue this tradition, without being pointlessly tight. Genetic D-Riser 16 GENETIC D RISER 16 BARS | cycling-not-racing was the obvious contender with its 75mm reach and offered an extra 20mm rise.  

However, I fancied something with a shallower drop. Some NOS Ridgeback Gravel Drops going for proverbial pennies came under my radar. While the Ridgeback don’t feature any rise, they have an 8-degree flare, mm reach, drop. I’d also had half an eye on Genetic’s Digest, which feature a very favourable 76mm reach and 110mm drop.  

One thing led to another, and I found myself acquiring a set of each. It didn’t take me long before I switched Denise’s WTB Dirt drops for the Genetic Digest. Thankfully, though it took a while to port everything over, prune a brake cable outer and similar quick tweaks, no replacements required- this also applied to the Ergon Orthocell Bar Tape Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing.

Out on the road, the Digest’s flare is very discernible and gives tremendous leverage, which, aside from trail duties is particularly helpful if you’re towing a trailer, or tagalong. That said, coming from a traditional road bar, steering will feel barge-like to begin with.

Another similarity with On-One’s Midge, they open the chest cavity, which really helps when powering up the climbs- great for cyclo cross, or indeed climbing on the fixed. The only other significant consideration is that greater width can make navigating tight spaces trickier- negotiating congested traffic, or indeed doorways.  

I’ve decided I’ll keep the Ridgeback as spares, should Muffins’ D-riser 4 show any signs of fatigue. As with Ursula, I’ve reach and height absolutely bang on for my needs. Though I’m a fettler, the old saying “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” resonates strongly.      

Another thing to consider when choosing drops, at least for mixed terrain, or indeed, dedicated trail duties (as distinct from cyclo cross, where there’s a lot of dis and re-mounting when things get more technical) is the bar’s uniformity, meaning that lights and other accessories are easily mounted-at the desired angles. 

I’d contemplated retiring the Giant Continuum 9 function computer, but found replacing the batteries, giving the contacts a quick squirt of maintenance spray restored the original performance and appears to have addressed some connectivity issues, especially when riding through areas of high electrical interference. A New Old Stock Blackburn Atom 4 (the wireless version) may well be finding its way to Ursula, assuming I can successfully troubleshoot some minor niggles.

 New contact points and indeed, adjustments always feel different to begin with, hence I leave things set that way for a couple of hundred miles and tweak accordingly

Obviously, a longer threadless steerer and spacer play will have the same effect and overcomes some of the limitations of quill stems and in this instance, adaptors. However, I should also point out, higher end models such as this Profile design are infinitely superior to the generic types found on auction sites. Yes, I’ve used those and they’re adequate, but that’s it.   

Several months down the line. I’m also very impressed by the Wolf Tooth Morse Bottle Cages Wolf Tooth Morse Steel Bottle Cage | cycling-not-racing. Ours were the stainless versions combining a timeless aesthetic with high degrees of adjustability and bottle tenure is excellent. 

 

Curly Bars & Fat Tyres

 

Hybrid certainly applies in the context of Ursula and drop bar mountain bikes have been around since the mid-1980s. There is a solid argument, (even if you don’t necessarily agree with it) that gravel bikes are in fact hybrids of road and mountain bikes. I lean toward them being the love child of cyclo cross and rigid 90s cross country mountain bike. The trend for converting 90s cross country mountain bikes to drop bar gravel machines is perhaps predictable. Something I can certainly get my head around.

Afterall, Denise is a late 80’s mountain bike frameset modified to run 700c wheels. That said, like most trends, I’m of the opinion there should be nuance and not a cult or heard like wholesale movement. Early 90s cross country mountain bikes were very capable and engaging machines that handled beautifully.

My 1990 Kona Lava Dome was a case in point. There was a genre called hybrid, which featured flat bars and slowly died a death as the 90s wore on. The higher end models boasted Reynolds 531 and similar grade tubesets- closer to a flat bar tourer with bigger tyres. However, the majority tended to be marketed as commuter steeds with an upright stance, wider saddles lower grade tubing and components.

Mudguard and rack mounts and with clearance for 35-38mm meant they made serviceable town hacks and utility bikes.  I was quite drawn to the Orbit Frontier, which was a drop bar 531 tubed rough stuff tourer with clearance for 700x38c tyres inc full length mudguards.

Marketed as the best of both worlds, the press felt it was too compromised, master of none, essentially. Top-mounted thumb rather than bar end shifters were an example of this and a really strange choice for a drop bar small scale production build. The most commonly remembered frontier was their 531 tubed mountain bike dressed in Shimano XT. Quality control was problematic during this period but turned around under Lee Cooper’s supervision.  

Muddy Fox Trailblazer was another curious beast- drop bar mountain bike with bar cons and 26x1.75 tyres. Similar theme to Specialized’s Rock Combo, but a little earlier- I spotted it in “Bicycle” magazine back in March 1987.  Both machines were well ahead of their time and in my view, the epitome of ATB (All Terrain Bikes). Neither I would pay classic prices for, mind. Sentimental I may be, stupid I am not.

Back to 2026 and I’ve reached my conclusions about the Sidi Algor and decided to try a different front mudguard on Ursula. I’d been buying in some consumables and spotted a reasonably sturdy reinforced plastic model, which would also mean free postage, so took a punt. I’ wanted something with more coverage than the existing shorty fender- I’d reversed it to see if there was any improvement in mud protection. No, is the answer, but a worthwhile experiment.

Rain, mud and slurry had given way to icy winds and tumbling temperatures over Christmas-perfect for testing winter gloves and similar attire. The gritters had been out, prompting the switch to Denise and the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres, providing dependable grip and feedback as I hustled through the lanes.  Curiosity and the urge to experiment got the better of me, so I raised the bars slightly and whipped some other lights atop the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount. 

Not because the Gaciron Cetus could ever be described as lacking, but I hadn't charged it in a while and didn't want to be plunged into darkness several miles from home.  I had the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing to hand and was relieved to discover the mount took its 200plus grams in its stride, same story when I substituted for the Magicshine Ray2600, which was a bigger surprise.  Arguably the best fit was this See Sense Beam, which weighs a feathery 59g. 

While dynamos are bright and highly dependable, I like a powerful backup, just in case- comes in handy should I need to tackle a flat, or similar roadside mechanical by the roadside. Similarly, while the Exposure Revo is a beautifully made and relatively powerful lamp, 800lumens is a little underpowered for backroad blasting, adding another 500 or so makes a very tangible difference, while sipping reserves-at least on a more powerful torch-type rechargeable system.

Similarly, I usually carry a spare rear light-failures are infrequent but do happen and are at best inconvenient.  One old favourite is Nite Rider's Cherry Bomb- the 100-lumen version. Aside from being very bright, it was fuelled by AAA cells and enjoyed a seriously generous run times and would withstand being frozen- I left one submerged on a very chill winter day and it passed the ice bucket challenge with flying colours. 

Topeak Redlite Aero Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing and its Mega stablemate are two further good examples of lights with AAA options. The former is only two modes- steady and flashing. Arguably all we strictly need, but sometimes a choice of flashing modes is nice, especially if navigating city centres with competing illuminations, or when fitted to a trailer, or tagalong.