Melting, Musing, Blasting & Stopping

Not surprising perhaps, since the UK has recently experienced, the hottest day on record. It was a stonking hot week, at least here in the South East. Even nocturnal rides, testing lights, were close and muggy-hovering around 24 degrees. 

Day rides, saw emulsion and wax types chain lubes melt. Literally coating the drive-side crank arms in a sticky residual layer. On that quickly contaminated shoes. Thankfully, these were easily dismissed with a gentle solvent. 

Beeswax furniture polish for the crank arms, leather conditioner cum food, the shoes. Internal frame preserves have also turned very fluid, but not to the stage where its gushing from the frames "breathe holes" , engulfing the chainstays/hub etc. 

I can function well enough in these temperatures, although maintaining a steady 20 mph for 20 miles, can be challenging-even with sufficient fluids. Designs like the back bottle (link & photograph) come into their own.  Though there are some minor downsides, I've come to really appreciate the Relaj Shape Bottle's design too.

Popping ice (or pour 70% full of water, then freeze) and placing in a jersey pocket brings welcome, cooling relief. I'm also pleased to report the Funkier Force Pro Bib shorts https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/funkier-force-pro-bib-shorts  have certainly cut it in the comfortt stakes. They also offer plenty of bang, for very modest buck, in other respects, too.  

For the most part, I'm resistant to testing new shorts and saddles, in case both are mutually incompatible. Far fairer to run an old favourite and see how things measure up. Hygiene aside; I have alternated between different bibs to see how the saddle covering behaves. 

Am I able to make minute adjustments, am I surfing around, or do I feel like I'm perched atop a sheet of flypaper? The first scenario, is my particular sweet spot. Now, I would appear to have braking on the brain, at the minute, at least given my last few entries. 

Only because the more powerful and controlled my machine's stopping prowess, the faster I can go (to a point and within reason). Some would argue (with some justification) that a disc setup is overkill on a fixed. True, a well-honed cantilever will haul me and 20 kilos of payload to a controlled, predictable halt-even along a 1in 7 pushing 30 odd mph. 

However, on a four season's machine, one running a single stopper, disc is an obvious choice. I have run Tektro Spyre on mine, for several years now. Its a twin piston design, widely regarded the benchmark for cable operated systems. A sentiment I'd agree with. 

However, time and technology marches on. I've been keen to try Clarks CMD22 Dual Piston disc brake and Rever MCX1 systems to see if they have an edge. Dual piston designs have several advantages over single pistons, such  as Avid BB5 and BB7. 

Firstly, both pistons move an equal distance, thus connect evenly with the disc rotor. Therefore, even wear of both consumables, superior modulation and feel. They're also markedly easier to setup and maintain. There are some folks who "advocate" consigning the humble cable-operated disc, to the vaults of history. 

Modern hydraulic systems win hands down, in competitive contexts. No need to dial in the pads to compensate for wear, open systems do that automatically. 

Indeed, provided you don't kink/damage the hose, stick to the correct fluid and observe service intervals, they're fit n' forget. A few months back, I was lusting after TRP Hylex but couldn't secure a set, at the right price. 

I've no doubt they'd convert me within a matter of lever actuations, mind. Such lust has been tempered by the arrival of these Clarks CM22, which I shall whip aboard and dial in very shortly.  

160mm rotors have been my default, as they have an advantage in the stopping stakes (although some suggest 140mm, are fine for 'cyclo cross). 

Never be tempted to skimp of cable quality, mind. These are also central to getting the very best from them. I'd suggest compressionless, and decent cutters. Something like these Jagwire Pro Road https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit and Super B TBWC30 Cable Cutters https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/super-b-tb-wc30-pro-cable-cutters

Not that I was going to go very far with a flat tyre. To my surprise, my working fixed's ultra dependable Schwalbe Marathon GT, had succumbed to a flat. No sign of anything sharp in the casing, so I fed it a tube from my tube rack, along with another spare for the SQR Tour. 

Wheel, home, chain correctly tensioned and we're ready to let the good tmes roll again.   I will probably switch to the Vee Rubber Zilent Tyre, once the Maraton GT comes of pensionable age. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-tyre   It'll save a few grams too, especially the 35mm (as big as said bike's rear triangle will entertain). 

Several hundred miles in, I'm not surprised the fixed's SRAM has negligible wear. As a rough n' ready, even through a harsh winter, I can  expect 3,000 miles from a fixed chain. Nonetheless, and regardless of your chain types, its good to check their health frequently. 

Replacing chains by, or before wear hits 0.8mm, saves a lot of unnecessary erosion, and ultimately, expense replacing rings, cassettes and other components. I prefer the digital models but simple, nickle plated anaologue models give change from £5.   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torque-chain-checker

Cantering Along

Another 120 miles on my tubby tourer, pleased with the recent revisions, I decided it was time to dial in the Genetic CX cantilevers. There was a little too much lever travel, for my tastes. Thankfully, they’re much easier to hone, than the otherwise impressive IRD CAFAM2. Pull cable and straddle wires through a few mm, tweak balance screws-Result!

Switched to The Muc-Off Dry Lube, since opportunity presented. A freshly cleaned and lubricated chain always makes the drivetrain feel that bit fresher. However, 100 miles or so later, I'm increasingly forming the opinion that friction is lower than the Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube and Finish Line Dry lubes https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line-dry-bike-lube  which is going some.  

Shifting feels almost instantaneous, in both directions across the block, even under load. The pronounced lack of friction just encouraged me to increase my temp. I’ve also concluded gearing is bang on, for the riding contexts intended.

Admittedly, I could go slightly lower, for heavier trailer loads, but for time being I’ll leave be. Durability is another consideration (especially given the Muc-Off Dry Lube’s relatively long curing period).

However, I’ve gone past the 160-mile stage without any hint of waning. In common with some wax formulas, several days at 23-28 degrees, and its assumed that fluid consistency. Lubricant has seeped deep within the chain, and a filmy, residual layer is clinging to the cassette. It’s also quite tacky to touch, though transfer to fingers/clothing hasn’t proved overly problematic, thus far.

For some folks, the lube debate is binary i.e. if you’re riding in wet/changeable weather, stick to a wet formula. Dry, for arid, dusty conditions. However, given the UK’s notoriously changeable climate, I like something that can bridge the gap, resisting those unpredictable showery periods, without attracting a gungy beard. 

That said and testing aside; chances are you’ll find my chains running a stoical wet formula, such as Weldtite TF2 Extreme wet chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr  or, if I want to keep maintenance times down, something like SKS lube your chain, which locks the grot within the top layer. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sks-lube-your-chain

This might look unsightly but is “embalming” the chain. Crap eventually flakes away in chunks, leaving only a layer of lubricant behind.  Here’s an overview to lubes, if you’re new to riding, or want to explore the best option(s), for you. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-ao363

Elsewhere, I’m also warming to the Oxford Contour flow saddle. 120 mixed terrain miles in, the relatively narrow profile and sensibly proportioned padding density are proving a winner for my derriere. I was slightly surprised to discover the rails are a solid steel, which would probably explain the weight differential, compared with those sporting hollow Cro-moly. 

4130 is common at this price point too, and my preference.

Is it a deal breaker? Not necessarily, why bemoan a few grams, if the saddle fits your shape and goes unnoticed, in the most positive sense. Will give it another 250 miles before reaching a conclusive verdict, mind.

Those seeking a wallet friendly 6061 post, with classic lines might be interested in Steve’s review of the Genetic Heritage II sea tposthttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-heritage-ii-seat-post  . Right, off to play with the Ravemen PR1200 USB Rechargeable Dual lens Front Light.

Tighten Thy Top Cap !!!

Some of you may recall I'd been trying to diagnose a small but low level rattle, on my fixed gear winter/trainer. Some minor jingle is attributable to a bag of fasteners, tucked away in the depths of its SQR Tour bag. The Eureka moment struck, not while screaming along a 1 in 4 at 35mph, but grinding along a long, deceptively flat section of washboard tarmac. 

https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/380414165945084/?notif_id=1563290229476148&notif_t=page_post_reaction

This frustrating percussion was traced to an aluminium spacer drumming against the top-cap and Redshift Sports Shock Stop Suspension stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/red , indicating the Gusset Headlock, had worked slightly loose.  For those unfamiliar with the system, its a more secure alternative to the humble Star Fangled Nut. It comprises of a CNC machined top cap, cro-moly bolt and alloy nut. 

Aside from keeping the bearing tension bang on, theoretically it offers some additional security in the event of (gulp) steerer failure. The system  carries a slight weight penalty, requires some filing and subtle bending of mudguard (fender) mounts. They're also incompatible with dual pivot and other side-pull brakes. However, I consider them a definite upgrade for machines with cantilever/V/Disc stoppers.   

For some reason, I  couldn't locate my multi tool, by the roadside. However, I was only three miles from home. Snugged tight, I slipped this GT multi-tool in the SQR Tour's side pocket, for easy access.  Talking of SQR, while fitting this Oxford Contour flow saddle, I investigated my Univega's slightly "sticky" SQR bracket.   

Removing and compressing the spring, then reinstating the red, quick release mechanism proved the solution. In retrospect, a quick blast of Muc-Off Silicon shine https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-silicone-shine-polish might've done. 

However, sometimes its best to strip and inspect, especially if you haven't in a while. The bag rails now lock securely within the bracket. Never had any ejection issues, when riding, but the Carradry bag https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-carradry had a tendency to sneak from the bracket, when the bike was hanging up. 

Apparently, the Oxford Contour Flow, is "Aimed at the middling cycling enthusiast those who have just started to be gripped by the unrelenting claws of cycling passion". 

Its a sensibly narrow design, with a gender specific cutout, gel padding and seemingly neat construction.  Will be interesting to see how it compares with the Selle Italia Sport Gel Flow FEC alloy saddle. The latter is 20g lighter but weight hasn't been the reason behind its residency, a few thousand miles down the line. 

Reverting to the bike's original fork has brought a quicker, more compliant persona. Not that handling, or responsiveness was remotely average beforehand but the trials fork was portly compared to the relatively delicate looking triple butted Cro-moly originals. The Microshift Centos' standard lever travel works a treat with the Genetic CX cantilevers too.  

So glad I switched. 

I'm also very glad I swerved this "documentary" from Channel 5 https://www.channel5.com/show/cyclists-scourge-of-the-streets/ I must admit, it was reeling me in, like a super visceral horror film. the sort you really don't want to see, yet feel strongly compelled by.  

Knowing it would serve no purpose, save for raising my blood pressure, I popped out on the fixed. 

Thankfully, Chris Boardman responded in his usual, measured, reasoned and articulate way.  https://twitter.com/BritishCycling/status/1148622845695557632  All the more poignient, and dignified given his mother was  killed by a "distracted" driver. 

 Back to multi-tools, designs such as Blackburn Switch https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blackburn-switch-multi-tool have some definite advantages. However, because the bits detach, there's the real risk of losing one (or more) out in the wildes. This also serves as timely reminder, to check condition and supply of spares/tooling. Particularly those belonging to mile munching working bikes. 

140 miles in, and I'm warming to the Muc-Off dry lube, which seems surprisingly low on the friction front.  Level-pegging with Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube  , although the Zefal is cheaper and doesn't have a prescribed curing time. 

On the face of things, suggesting its more practical for commuting, impromptu rides with friends, and of course, summer touring. Having tested its PTFE infused predecessor some years back, I'm curious to how this version compares.

 Most dry lubes (excluding hardier ceramics) should return around 225 spring/summer miles from a single helping (roughly ten days/two weeks riding. Given the asking price, I'd be very disappointed if it didn't top this.

Cleanliness is impressive, no more evidence of contaminant, than the Zefal, or indeed Finish Line Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line-dry-bike-lube. It transfers less readily to hands/clothing too, which is a definite plus.

On the subject of dry. Rather than simply scabbing away, Zefal Extra Dry Premium Chain Wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-extra-dry-chain-wax seems to melt, when temperatures climb to the mid 20s. A helpful phenomenon, that redistributes lubricant, trafficking it deep within the chain, cleat and similar mechanisms. 

Forks & Functionality

I'm someone who keeps "doing" (as distinct from "to-do") lists. These are organic, and used to structure, and critically analyse how effectively I'm using time, and other resources. "To do lists are full of good intentions, but few results. Some might even describe them as "where good ideas go to die".

That established, instatiing the Univega's original (and recently refurbed) forks were on Saturday's agenda.

Organisation i.e. laying out tools, parts etc are all part of productivity. I'd suspected the long serving Tortec guards' stays were close to pensionable, so retrieved an SKS set, just in case. 

Next came the crown race removal and setting tools, grease, Allen keys, two sets of cable cutters (Premium for cables, cheap n' cheerfuls for cable ties, and similar donkey work).  

Going off piste, I decided to switch to these Genetic CX Cantilevers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes . I'm very fond of the IRD CAFAM 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes but fancied a change, and besides, the Genetic are much easier to set up. 

I love a really firm, positive action, so set the spring tension to maximum, greased the "new" forks canti posts with Park PPL1 Poly lube and popped them aboard, before turning my attentions to disassembling the Univega's existing front end. Being a daily driver, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily everything released.  

Full length mudguards (fenders) keep a remarkable amount of corrosive filth, from rider and machine, extending servicing times and ultimately, component life. I was pleasantly surprised by how much, effective Muc-Off Bio Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test was still in evidence. Old "School chair" trials fork out. I gave the Aheadset's bottom race cursory inspection, before delivering a fresh helping, of the jam-ike grease.  

Be rude (and silly) not to.  I replace headsets/ forks maybe once yearly, so find this  wallet friendly Ice Toolz crown race remover perfectly adequate. a few even taps later, I'd extracted the crown race and fitted it to the "new" forks, using my  Cyclo setting tool. 

Scrap "Gas pipe" down tubes make excellent, zero-cost alternatives, although ensure these have been cut cleanly, and accurately...

From this point, everything came back together, sans drama. Wheel reinstated, brakes setup, mudguard hardware greased and snugged tight, it was simply a case of setting bearing tension, trimming cables and naturally, treating the fork to some  Velo 21 Ultimate paintwork protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 .  

I also took this opportunity to blast some corrosion inhibiting products inside the breathe holes, before hanging the bike up. This encourages it to travel through, and evenly coat the hosts. In a pinch, anything  (petrochemical) oily will do. A teaspoon, or two of 10w/40 motor oil inside a frame, or delivered into the fork blades, via syringe will certainly help. 

I chose to use up an almost exhausted aerosol, of waxy chain lube. Given the temperate weather, it should melt nicely and distribute evenly within their inner sanctum.  Talking of which, Steve's been putting some Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Lube & Protectant through its paces 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/boeshield-t-9  

Last but not least, for this "sitting"; dynamo cable and computer sensors were tethered, to their respective blades. Weight might be a lesser consideration on a working bike and ultimately, I didn't weigh both forks. However, anecdotally, the  originals are noticeably lighter (gun to my head, probably 300g), which for me, is another bonus.

Knew there was a reason I squirreled them away...

Continuing the working bike theme, co-editor Steve Dyster has been putting Bristol Bicycles Touring Bike through its paces and seems pleasantly surprised by its blend of fun and practicality. 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bristol-bikes-touring 

Elsewhere, I've commenced testing Muc Off Dry Lube, which has a hue and odour, reminiscent of banana ice cream. It also has a recommended curing time of 4 hours, hence one I'd be inclined to re/apply the evening before riding. Once cured, it seems closer to a "diet" wax formula. 

A formative forty mile blast suggests friction's lower than a snake's testicles but I'll reserve any kind of proper judgement, for another 250, or so. Be interesting to see how it compares with the quick curing Zefal Pro Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube,  

Ironing out the imperfections

Third time lucky, they say. Bribed with biscuits, Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating https://ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/ kindly slotted in my beloved "ironing board", and the Univega's original forks. 

Ironing board??? Well, that's Carl, their shot blaster's affectionate nickname, for my beloved Bob Yak homage. One I reckon's rather fitting. Anyhow, like most of my refurbs, there were a few surprises along the way. 

First; the forks. These were chased through with industrial alcohol, to remove any frame preserve. Otherwise (this goes for anything oily, especially OIF motorcycle frames) it will turn molten during the curing phases, ruining the new finish and potentially scalding the sprayer. Not cool.  

Graham then whipped them over to the chilled iron grit cabinet. This media, is extremely effective and more durable, than others. However, for flawless results, he gave them a final tidying, using glass bead. Unlike the frame, there wasn't a nickle plated layer, beneath the flamboyant red enamel. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home   

Nonetheless, brazing and TIG work was to the stereotypically clean, uniform Taiwanese standard.  

By contrast, the trailer was submerged in the methyl chloride tank, for twenty minutes. Much as we'd anticipate, the unsealed 2K factory finish began to lift, and was coming away in grey ribbons. This revealed a phosphate rich primer, which I wasn't expecting, given the budget, yet serviceable top coat. 

From here, it went to their main blasting cabinet. One that has echos of Leatherface's cutting room, in Texas Chainsaw Massacre. After performing some remedial surgery on "the pot"; Carl stripped the remaining mulchy mess using cast iron grit. Blasting, regardless of media, provides the lightly dimpled key, for primer and subsequent coats. 

This also reveals the item's true structural integrity. I recommend asking your finisher to give you a call, once they've blasted the frame (or other item). At this point, any remedial works (and their cost implications) can be discussed and, where appropriate, commissioned. 

So, with the fork given its zinc rich, epoxy primer, I had toyed with the idea of having the trailer's swing arm finished in gloss black and the trailer (sorry, ironing board) chrome silver. However, this would be adding mischief to the mix, for no good reason. 

This still received the epoxy base coat, oven cured at 150 degrees, for 15 minutes. The faint tackiness encourages better adhesion, of the colour and clear coats. Chrome silver was then applied, and returned to the curing oven for a further fifteen minutes. 

Graham advised me against touching the colour finish, since this requires an acrylic lacquer. Oils from the skin, however slight, can cause oily patches to bleed through. 

Curiously, there was no call for lacquering the forks, since the gloss black was described as particularly hardy. Besides a small fracture in the clear coat's surface (caused by a quick release "bite mark") could result in blistering and in turn, unsightly peeling.  

Given their attention to detail, and exemplary standards of workmanship, I wasn't remotely surprised (although still delighted) by the impeccable results. Rebuilding took longer than first envisaged. Thankfully I always take photos, of disassembly. 

However, I forgot to take my own advice, when it came to two plastic sleeves. These were hidden deep within the swing arm. More by luck than judgement, I managed to reinstate them correctly, first time. 

Aside from blowing some Green Oil Eco spray lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube inside the chassis, I applied liberal slatherings of Pure Bike Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pure-bike-grease to the swing arm's plastic bushing cum bearings, which will hopefully protect and lubricate.  

Despite thorough masking, some residual specs of powder can sneak in, thus the hitch assembly required a bit of bedding in, and a shot of Green Oil ECo-Spray lube before they'd connect and release smoothly. 

Bob Elliot & Co LTD https://www.bob-elliot.co.uk/ have sent us some lovely Ravemen and Smart lights, so you'll excuse me. Time to pop them on charge, and go out to play.