Curly Carbon Bars & bust Butyl

With Co-editor, Steve enjoying a short tour of Belgium, I've been busily harvesting kit, while weaving rest and play into the mix. I also fitted these Coefficient The Wave Handlebars, to my Holdsworth. 

Described as "The Ultimate Road, Gravel & Endurance Handlebar"; its a curly carbon fibre design. One that bears passing resemblance to Genetic D-Riser 16 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars and to a lesser extent, Soma Condor 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars

In common with these aluminium alloy models, the wave is reckoned an ergonomic design for riders seeking "The speed of drops, and the long ride comfort of the bar tops". Apparently, the sloping top section provides a hand position mimicking the wrist's natural alignment.  

A slight, 1.5 degree flare reputedly offers a more solid stance, meaning you can remain on the drops for longer, even off road. The grip diameter varies proportionately, to reflect different hand sizes  

Some traditional drop features remain, including 77mm reach and 120mm drop. I've gone for the 44cm, which would seem the best fit, given I'm broader across the shoulders than my height and build would otherwise imply. 

Fully compatible with Di2, there's the option of routing brake and gear cables internally. However, they can be run and taped beneath the bars, as I have here. I've reused the Holdsworth's silicone bar wrap, which also compliments the bars' matt black finish rather well. 

Some folks might be tempted to bolt tri bars atop. Don't! To some extent this would detract from pattern's unique selling points but more importantly, doing so runs the very real risk of potentially fatal, structural damage. Since we're here, maximum recommended torque settings are 6nms. 

Forgo torque wrench at your peril. 

My maiden voyage confirmed I needed to move the bike's Tektro brake lever down a few centimetres but some 220 miles in, I'm suitably smitten. There's sensible scope for torch type lights, computers and similar creature comforts, too.

Given carbon composites should be more readily inspected for signs of fatigue, a naturally grippy, reusable wrap, such as this ACROS Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape  is an obvious choice. Its also rather nice, in its own right.  

Low weight and wow factor are two obvious draws to carbon but while I wouldn't entertain touring on a carbon frameset (even with a YAK type trailer trundling behind) its nice for other genres of endurance riding. 

Compliance reduces fatigue, especially on longer rides. Said bar swap has shaved 130g but has introduced a more compliant feel to the Holdsworth's front end. On paper, it shouldn't feel that way, given the 531 tubes and carbon composite blades but large flange hubs and relatively deep section rims give a brisk, though slightly direct ride. 

The Coefficient Wave are springy, compared with the otherwise loveable Soma and its quite noticable (though not unpleasant or unsettling) when powering along a climb, from a junction etc. 

Carbon fibre is also very conductive, so when it comes to frames, remember to grease the aluminium alloy bottom bracket sleeve liberally, using an appropriate prep. Assuming of course, you wanted to avert galvanic seizures. White Lightning Crystal High Performance Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease or Muc Off Bio Grease (which could easily pass for strawberry jam) https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test seem effective.

Contrary to popular misconception, carbon composite frames are repairable, even when seemingly beyond redemption. That said; this is only economically viable, on high-end, rather than budget variants. They can also be refinished using 2k automotive paints and either air, or flash cured at 120 degrees. Had a mishap? Have a word with Carbon Fibre Repair in Leatherhead, Surrey. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/a-visit-to-carbon-fibre-bike-repair 

Summer jerseys have become not only lighter, but longer and er, tighter, I mean figure hugging. Thus far, I've only felt the benefits in terms of improved temperature regulation, and indeed, reduced drag. I've only been able to measure this anecdotally (being bereft of wind tunnel facilities) but there's markedly less flutter when hustling along breezy backroads, and screaming along the descents. 

Even with the zipper drawn to half-mast, for additional, physical airflow. This thinner, second skin close genre aren't the most accepting of Lycra arm warmers, base layers etc, which may be a turn off for early spring and Autumn duties. However, they translate well to indoor trainer slavery, I mean service, during the darker months.    

Talking of which, I've also been doing some long, steady night miles with the Ravemen PR1200 USB Rechargeable Dual Lens Front Light https://www.facebook.com/sevenday.cyclist/videos/pcb.2109616222667497/2109613026001150/?type=3&theater  We're also awaiting some rather nice Trelock lights. I'm keen to test another, higher power front dynamo lamp, for my fixed gear winter/trainer (100 lux upwards). 

That said;  I'm not overly keen on the German beam pattern as dictated by their StVZO/TA standards.Yes, there's no doubt it provides enough punch in the seen-by sense. However, on UK roads (Especially unlit ones) its less effective than my beloved Exposure MK1 Revo and indeed, high power rechargeable systems.. 

With Parliament (and some would argue, democracy) in meltdown, the late summer heatwave returned. What better opportunity to get some serious miles on the Holdsworth... 

While fitting those new bars, I nipped the chain tension up a notch, ressurecting these MKS chain tugs, while I was about it. 

Topped up  the Zefal Extra Dry Premium Quality Chain Wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-extra-dry-chain-wax  which returned 120 miles, before ultimately stripping with  Naked Bikes Chain Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/naked-bikes 

I've since switched to  Rock n' roll Gold LV. Despite some wet spells, the moderate helping delivered to my other chains, is still going very strong after 250miles. 

So then, busted butyl. Well, while prepping my fixed gear winter trainer for a late night saunter and light test, the front wheel's presta valve literally disintegrated in my hand. 

Undeterred, I switched to the Halo Evua And Shutter Precision SL9 Dynohub Wheel https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy, whacked some wind in the Soma Shikoro tyre https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/s, and replaced the other tube, on my return. The old tube lives on, as a brace for my Nicotina plants, whicxh are doing rather well, all things considered...

Warp Speed, Mr Sulu!

The nights are beginning to steadily creep in. A few weeks back, it was still light by 2100, now I've the dynamo and rear blinkie running at 1930 onward. Some would argue running front and rear blinkies is good practice, long before dusk. I'm inclined to agree. 

My tubby tourer's Exposure Revo dynamo headlight not only produces a very usable 800 lumens, the standlight lasts longer than most. Therefore, no problems at busy junctions. Nonetheless, anecdotally, it seems car, and other drivers respond faster to a fast tempo of a daylight/similar flash setting. Hence the ORP Smart Horn https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/orp-smart-horn and more recently, this Ravemen  LR500S USB Rechargeable Curved Lens Front Light. Clue's in the title, its a compact light with a total (and more potent than figures suggest) of 500 lumens.  

In common with its LR1200 counterpart, it uses lens technology, which is designed to provide a pure, consistent, yet road friendly beam. There are four modes. Three steady High (500) medium (300) and low (100), which should cater for town suburban and semi rural contexts, without being impotent, or abrasive. 

Run times are cited as a commuting friendly 1.6, 2.8 and 7.5 hours respectively. The rapid flash (200) is reckoned good for 15  In emergency, there's the option of plugging into a portable "power bank" and I also like the wired remote option.

Not that the switch cum battery life indicator is tricky to operate and there's a memory mode. Both the 1200 and 500 brackets are fully compatible with the different units, hence I've swapped between tubby tourer and working fixed. There's also an upside down, Garmin type option, if you're pressed for space, or despise clutter. 

An aluminium alloy casing, though not unheard of, at this price point (£34.99) is nice to see. Its shock resistant to 1 metre and complies with PPX 6 for weather repellency. Reassuring.  

Even with high power main systems (dynamos, in this instance) I always carry a second compact unit. Should I puncture/similar along a very dark lane, or snag a wire/similar, then I've always got a sensibly powered backup. Most of the time, these just do a different sort of backing singing-flashing away. Now, much to my surprise, I've discovered it has cancelled out the signal from my tubby tourer's simple little Cat-Eye Quick Computer. 

I initially put this down to a dead sensor battery, and changed the CR2032 button cell, adding a quick lick of Vaseline to the contacts, while I was there.  Spun the wheel, fine. Popped the Ravemem into fast flash the next morning and headed along the lanes. Head unit registered  0 . 

Having stopped and double checked sensor/magnet clearances, I switched the Ravemen off. With (almost) immediate effect,  the display read 14.3 mph. The moment I reengaged the little Ravemen. 0 .  

Shame too, since I was really flying along the flats and descents. In keeping with the Zefal Pro Dry Chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube and indeed, Muc-Off Dry Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube, the Rock N' Roll Gold LV one of those low friction blends that really encourages a taller gear and faster cadence. Theory goes this family are intended to be topped up, every 100miles or  so, although I've managed over 400 miles with their absolute dry (admittedly, an older formula) 

Anyone will tell you a wired connection is the most reliable. However, I've never experienced this before-with any system. Sure, older wireless models had a reputation for going bonkers, in close proximity to high currents-Pylons, nuclear power stations etc. 

88mph uphill anyone? Might just be the relatively close proximity. It's presently on the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory mount https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-orange-handlebar-accessory-mou, so I'll swap it around and see if this makes any difference.  Elsewhere,  Oxford have sent us their North Shore Off Road gloves, which are proving surprisingly capable options for late summer road riding, too. Plenty of miles to do before I cement a proper, informed conclusion. Muc Off also sent me a small bottle of their matt finish detailer, which I've wasted no time applying to a few lids.  

Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise. 

Melting, Musing, Blasting & Stopping

Not surprising perhaps, since the UK has recently experienced, the hottest day on record. It was a stonking hot week, at least here in the South East. Even nocturnal rides, testing lights, were close and muggy-hovering around 24 degrees. 

Day rides, saw emulsion and wax types chain lubes melt. Literally coating the drive-side crank arms in a sticky residual layer. On that quickly contaminated shoes. Thankfully, these were easily dismissed with a gentle solvent. 

Beeswax furniture polish for the crank arms, leather conditioner cum food, the shoes. Internal frame preserves have also turned very fluid, but not to the stage where its gushing from the frames "breathe holes" , engulfing the chainstays/hub etc. 

I can function well enough in these temperatures, although maintaining a steady 20 mph for 20 miles, can be challenging-even with sufficient fluids. Designs like the back bottle (link & photograph) come into their own.  Though there are some minor downsides, I've come to really appreciate the Relaj Shape Bottle's design too.

Popping ice (or pour 70% full of water, then freeze) and placing in a jersey pocket brings welcome, cooling relief. I'm also pleased to report the Funkier Force Pro Bib shorts https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/funkier-force-pro-bib-shorts  have certainly cut it in the comfortt stakes. They also offer plenty of bang, for very modest buck, in other respects, too.  

For the most part, I'm resistant to testing new shorts and saddles, in case both are mutually incompatible. Far fairer to run an old favourite and see how things measure up. Hygiene aside; I have alternated between different bibs to see how the saddle covering behaves. 

Am I able to make minute adjustments, am I surfing around, or do I feel like I'm perched atop a sheet of flypaper? The first scenario, is my particular sweet spot. Now, I would appear to have braking on the brain, at the minute, at least given my last few entries. 

Only because the more powerful and controlled my machine's stopping prowess, the faster I can go (to a point and within reason). Some would argue (with some justification) that a disc setup is overkill on a fixed. True, a well-honed cantilever will haul me and 20 kilos of payload to a controlled, predictable halt-even along a 1in 7 pushing 30 odd mph. 

However, on a four season's machine, one running a single stopper, disc is an obvious choice. I have run Tektro Spyre on mine, for several years now. Its a twin piston design, widely regarded the benchmark for cable operated systems. A sentiment I'd agree with. 

However, time and technology marches on. I've been keen to try Clarks CMD22 Dual Piston disc brake and Rever MCX1 systems to see if they have an edge. Dual piston designs have several advantages over single pistons, such  as Avid BB5 and BB7. 

Firstly, both pistons move an equal distance, thus connect evenly with the disc rotor. Therefore, even wear of both consumables, superior modulation and feel. They're also markedly easier to setup and maintain. There are some folks who "advocate" consigning the humble cable-operated disc, to the vaults of history. 

Modern hydraulic systems win hands down, in competitive contexts. No need to dial in the pads to compensate for wear, open systems do that automatically. 

Indeed, provided you don't kink/damage the hose, stick to the correct fluid and observe service intervals, they're fit n' forget. A few months back, I was lusting after TRP Hylex but couldn't secure a set, at the right price. 

I've no doubt they'd convert me within a matter of lever actuations, mind. Such lust has been tempered by the arrival of these Clarks CM22, which I shall whip aboard and dial in very shortly.  

160mm rotors have been my default, as they have an advantage in the stopping stakes (although some suggest 140mm, are fine for 'cyclo cross). 

Never be tempted to skimp of cable quality, mind. These are also central to getting the very best from them. I'd suggest compressionless, and decent cutters. Something like these Jagwire Pro Road https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit and Super B TBWC30 Cable Cutters https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/super-b-tb-wc30-pro-cable-cutters

Not that I was going to go very far with a flat tyre. To my surprise, my working fixed's ultra dependable Schwalbe Marathon GT, had succumbed to a flat. No sign of anything sharp in the casing, so I fed it a tube from my tube rack, along with another spare for the SQR Tour. 

Wheel, home, chain correctly tensioned and we're ready to let the good tmes roll again.   I will probably switch to the Vee Rubber Zilent Tyre, once the Maraton GT comes of pensionable age. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-tyre   It'll save a few grams too, especially the 35mm (as big as said bike's rear triangle will entertain). 

Several hundred miles in, I'm not surprised the fixed's SRAM has negligible wear. As a rough n' ready, even through a harsh winter, I can  expect 3,000 miles from a fixed chain. Nonetheless, and regardless of your chain types, its good to check their health frequently. 

Replacing chains by, or before wear hits 0.8mm, saves a lot of unnecessary erosion, and ultimately, expense replacing rings, cassettes and other components. I prefer the digital models but simple, nickle plated anaologue models give change from £5.   https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torque-chain-checker

Cantering Along

Another 120 miles on my tubby tourer, pleased with the recent revisions, I decided it was time to dial in the Genetic CX cantilevers. There was a little too much lever travel, for my tastes. Thankfully, they’re much easier to hone, than the otherwise impressive IRD CAFAM2. Pull cable and straddle wires through a few mm, tweak balance screws-Result!

Switched to The Muc-Off Dry Lube, since opportunity presented. A freshly cleaned and lubricated chain always makes the drivetrain feel that bit fresher. However, 100 miles or so later, I'm increasingly forming the opinion that friction is lower than the Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube and Finish Line Dry lubes https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line-dry-bike-lube  which is going some.  

Shifting feels almost instantaneous, in both directions across the block, even under load. The pronounced lack of friction just encouraged me to increase my temp. I’ve also concluded gearing is bang on, for the riding contexts intended.

Admittedly, I could go slightly lower, for heavier trailer loads, but for time being I’ll leave be. Durability is another consideration (especially given the Muc-Off Dry Lube’s relatively long curing period).

However, I’ve gone past the 160-mile stage without any hint of waning. In common with some wax formulas, several days at 23-28 degrees, and its assumed that fluid consistency. Lubricant has seeped deep within the chain, and a filmy, residual layer is clinging to the cassette. It’s also quite tacky to touch, though transfer to fingers/clothing hasn’t proved overly problematic, thus far.

For some folks, the lube debate is binary i.e. if you’re riding in wet/changeable weather, stick to a wet formula. Dry, for arid, dusty conditions. However, given the UK’s notoriously changeable climate, I like something that can bridge the gap, resisting those unpredictable showery periods, without attracting a gungy beard. 

That said and testing aside; chances are you’ll find my chains running a stoical wet formula, such as Weldtite TF2 Extreme wet chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr  or, if I want to keep maintenance times down, something like SKS lube your chain, which locks the grot within the top layer. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sks-lube-your-chain

This might look unsightly but is “embalming” the chain. Crap eventually flakes away in chunks, leaving only a layer of lubricant behind.  Here’s an overview to lubes, if you’re new to riding, or want to explore the best option(s), for you. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-ao363

Elsewhere, I’m also warming to the Oxford Contour flow saddle. 120 mixed terrain miles in, the relatively narrow profile and sensibly proportioned padding density are proving a winner for my derriere. I was slightly surprised to discover the rails are a solid steel, which would probably explain the weight differential, compared with those sporting hollow Cro-moly. 

4130 is common at this price point too, and my preference.

Is it a deal breaker? Not necessarily, why bemoan a few grams, if the saddle fits your shape and goes unnoticed, in the most positive sense. Will give it another 250 miles before reaching a conclusive verdict, mind.

Those seeking a wallet friendly 6061 post, with classic lines might be interested in Steve’s review of the Genetic Heritage II sea tposthttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-heritage-ii-seat-post  . Right, off to play with the Ravemen PR1200 USB Rechargeable Dual lens Front Light.