Lighting, Lubes & Log Cabins

So, I’ve reached our conclusions regarding the Ugoe 2000 headlight https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ugoe-2000   and The Oxford Bright Stop rear LED light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-bright-stop-rear-led-light I’ve turned my focus to mile munching with the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/1367504860051913/  which are performing convincingly, both on and off road. https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/324364064784396/c

No, they’re not a trail tyre, in the cross country mtb sense. Rather they’re go-anywhere, all-terrain rubber. Sure, they’re not going to carve through the gloop like an aggressive knobbly, or glide over asphalt with the same speed as a slick.

However, rolling resistance is considerably lower than their weight and 26x2.0inch profiles would suggest. Off road, they’ll take unmade tracks, bridle path and less intense forest trails, in their stride. The stuff that really turned me on, to mountain biking as a teenager. Also explains Gravel’s appeal (much the same principle, just tackled on bikes with more cyclo cross in their DNA).

Lightweight, rugged machines that could go anywhere and perform with similar finesse. Slower across asphalt than a road or touring rig but the ability to vanish at speed along a dirt road. Feeling the ear to ear grin grow and leaving the world behind.

Powerfully enticing now, much less a bored teen, stifled by school’s rigid conformity. I wasn’t disinterested in education, just the context and curriculum. Thankfully, there were a few suitably disruptive students, for teachers to actively “zoo-keep”.

This left me to read the latest Specialized or Cannondale test, sans introspection, let alone chastisement.  My sincerest thanks go to Jane Wright (as she was, then) who rose from her seat and burst into the Communards’ “Don’t leave me this way”. Surreal, in the Dennis Potter sense. Perfectly timed, mid-afternoon, during double French, with Miss Diaper...

Back to 2018…

As things turn wetter, thoughts turn to waterproof kit and we’ve also been putting some wallet friendly panniers, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford  mudguards https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-full-length-mudguard-kit  and tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-easy-street-tyre  through their paces. Aimed at commuters, all three seem to offer a decent amount of bang, for modest buck.

  

The motor oil challenge continues and much as I expected. The 5w/40 remains very stoical but is collecting moderate amounts of gunk, which are being purged on a weekly basis before it becomes a drivetrain gobbling, grinding paste.  Stoicism aside, shifts are very slick and silent, I latterly dribbled a tiny drop into every link.

There’s no one formula, for every occasion, in my experience, hence I like to alternate between lubricants, depending on the season. Self-cleaning wax types are particularly appealing. Low friction, lower maintenance (save for more frequent reapplication).

Home brewed variants are also extremely cheap to make (once you’ve got the consistency right). However, some commentators forget that the time and materials invested in this, have a cost (not to mention, mess) implication, which pushes their real “start-up” cost considerably higher (although I fully appreciate this can be recouped quite quickly over time).

Similarly, if you are unsure of correct brewing procedure, buying stock products is much cheaper than an explosion. The sort, resulting in an open plan terrace, and strained neighbourly relations.   

One of the major advantages shared by motor oil, chainsaw oil and more traditional wet lubes, is the ability to drizzle on, wipe and scoot off. Perfect during late autumn and winter, where daylight is at a premium.

Speaking of forest fun, Sharon booked us a Forest Holidays break, in Nottingham last week. https://www.forestholidays.co.uk/?channel=ppc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoo7gBRDuARIsANeJKUZ7A2ySyU__cEKkSfGO4ECVjym1pua6fPB-flh5RolooJh1ngRO6IYaAt14EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Despite some poor light, and inclement conditions, I managed a fair bit of mooching and captured a bit of trail action, for good measure.

En route up, I dropped my Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub wheel, with John Moss. Unfortunately, John says the hub is poorly, rendering spoke tensioning academic. Thankfully, Ison distribution www.ison-distribution.com have come to my rescue and will sort, under warrantee…

Strip n’ Sniff

No, things haven’t taken a sordid turn. If you’ve come looking for that, I’m delighted to disappoint. Having swapped the dynohub wheels over, I decided it was time to strip, inspect and ultimately re pack, my fixed gear winter/trainer's headset. Park PPL1 polylube is a tried and trusted formula, well suited to these applications. An obvious choice too, since it was already plugged into my grease gun.

One thing led to another and I exchanged its Torus Titanium stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem  , for The Redshift Sports Shockstop Suspension unit https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/red . Timely too, since the titanium stem and Soma bars had formed a surprisingly stubborn union. For some reason, I’d forgotten the all-important, light coating of assembly paste…

Thankfully the Gods of galvanic seizure were feeling merciful and the swap straightforward. Trench helmet is another thing that doesn’t strike very often but I had been haunted by a faintly funky odour. While tethering this Sigma Buster 700 front light, to my Bontrager helmet, said funk was attributable to the lid’s padding.

Off to the elderly Miele it went!

The Buster is proving an interesting light. A little under-powered on paper, for serious backroad, let alone trail antics. However, the actual beam quality is good enough (as a sole source) for rural navigation at 17/18mph on a clear night and seemingly, a big step up from its predecessor. Four modes might not get pules racing, given the race for tunability.

However, they’re easy to locate. Standard is 350lumens, certainly enough to be seen with and adequate for navigating less taxing, semi-rural roads. Low is 170 lumens, which is sensible for the suburbs and town (assuming you didn’t want to slip into flashing).

Flashing is impressive too, easily good enough for use as a daylight running mode.  The ability to “dip” straight down from 700 to 170 lumens, with a quick, double prod of the switch cum battery life indicator, is another definite plus. Composite construction saves a few grams, so its less obtrusive than some, worn atop a helmet.

In this context, it’s proving a welcome, compliment to my Univega’s Shimano Ultegra/ Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo setup. The Revo produces a very credible 800lumens, at relatively low speeds. In fact, its probably the only dynamo lamp, good enough for moderate trail duties. Or at least, the only one I have come across to date.

Temperatures are turning more typically autumnal range and my middleweight winter tights are becoming a more frequent sight. Issues of Tendonitis etc aside, to some extent, legs (especially when riding fixed) are perpetually in motion.

Blood’s circulating nicely, and (assuming it’s not raining dogs, or dipping below single figures) we’re still temperate. 

Hands, head and torso are relatively static, so layering/warmth is more critical here. Steve (co-editor) has been very impressed with Stolen Goat Climb & Conquer Grid Winter Jacket https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/stolen-goat    Recent weeks have proved mild enough for me to chase along the lanes in long sleeve base-layer and technical jackets, sometimes a gilet has been sufficient.

Late October, through to mid- November, it hasn’t dipped below 13 degrees in these parts. That said; I’ve opted for full finger gloves and with some minor misgivings, these Lusso Windtex Terrain Red gloves are delighting my digits.  

Windproof, water resistant and breathable, they’re reckoned to deliver in temperatures between 0 and 14 degrees. A tall order and one begging for bluff-calling. I always prefer garments (gloves in particular) that are weather resistant but wick fast, over “impervious designs”.

Same goes for socks, which in my experience results in athlete’s foot and similar fungal nasties. Unpleasant but caught quickly, easily dismissed by pouring alcohol-based mouthwash over the affected areas. Talking of socks and with Christmas just around the corner, Steve’s been pleasantly surprised by these https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bridgedale-waterproof-socks   

I also unearthed these Scott sport/casual SPD shoes and this Pro “Sleeping” hub while on another mission. Extensive mesh precludes the Scott’s service, for a while but the “sleeping hub” will come in handy during deep cleans and other jobs, dictating wheel removal.

Finally, an update on the “Motor oil challenge”. True to expectation, the 5W/40 is collecting a bit more gunk and grime, compared with more sophisticated ceramic types. However, nothing a weekly cat-lick of the side plates, doesn’t sort. Its also a necessary duty, with more traditional, hell n’ high water, bike specific wet lubes, including Weldtite TF2 Extreme wet https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr

Meaner Season

Autumn has progressed, with a much wetter flavour. Local authorities/highways departments are scrambling to patch battle-scared tarmac, while climate, conditions and budgets permit.

Temporary traffic-light control; raised ironworks and roughly lain tarmac is certainly testing rider skill, wheel build quality and tyre casings. 15 months on, my Halo White Line/Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b   could do with a quick tweak of its spoke tension.

John Moss (who built the wheel) has kindly offered to whip it on his jig, while I’m on an East Midlands mission. I’ll swap over to the Halo Evura/SL9 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  for a couple of weeks (and may take that route). I’ve switched to my Univega and getting some serious mileage on those Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres.

These continue to impress with their smooth, compliant personalities. On and sans asphalt. True, they have a puncture repelling rating of 6, whereas the 365’s are 7. However, rolling resistance is vastly superior, and I’ll be very surprised should I flat in the coming months.    

The “Motor Oil Challenge is working out, as I envisaged, 200 miles in. So far, a decent amount of 5w40 still clings to my fixed’s stainless steel chain. I’m anticipating at least 400 before replenishment’s required.

My Univega’s electroplated chain is more accommodating of lubes generally, so I’m wondering if I can sneak past the 500mile mark, on a single helping. Assuming a 9/10spd chain is good for 1100 miles, potentially two helpings of motor oil could last its lifespan. River riding, snowy, slushy conditions will put a dent in this, dictating more frequent top-ups.

Of course, price is not the only determinant when considering lubricants. I’m particularly fond of waxy ceramic types, which, when cured, are relatively dry to touch and generally maintenance free. Much nicer, when tackling a rear puncture/similar road/trailside mechanical.

I’m firmly of the little n’ often approach when it comes to maintenance and servicing. Tuning and replacing stuff as I go, rather than having set schedules. Nonetheless, I always ensure seat posts, headsets and pedals are liberally greased-twice yearly. Not to mention those little fasteners- mudguard, rack and bottle bosses.  

As we hurtle closer to winter, I’m thinking of retiring my fixed gear winter/trainer’s stainless-steel chain. Leaning toward something galvanised…May even plump for another, slightly lower fixed sprocket. Note to self…Remember to baste the hub’s threads with a luxuriously ceramic, grease!

Lithium based preps, commonly used in automotive contexts, are cheap and fine, if mating metals of similar parentage i.e. steel with steel, 7005 series aluminium alloys etc. Problem is, they’ll gobble rubberised components, including seals.

I much prefer a stout ceramic, such as White Lightning Crystal grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  Green Oil Eco-Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test  is a surprisingly stocky, non-toxic alternative.  Staying prowess is good. I’m happy using it on contact points and indeed, headsets/bottom brackets, provided the bike(s) in question are running full-length mudguards.   

Reliability and convenience are key, when it comes to enjoying winter. Treating framesets and components a liberal waxing and treating bikes to weekly sudsy bucket washes (cold water rinses first, to remove road salt and similar caustic stuff) is another sound idea.

This will lock the elements out, making it harder for gloop to stick and subsequent washing easier. Time poor riders, may find a system, such as Green Clean MX is the way forward https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack These are also available singularly, and I’m particularly endeared to the Cycle Shine. This can be applied to a freshly washed (and rinsed) bike. No buffing or polishing required, simply allow it to cure naturally.

Post wash; quick squirts of “maintenance” spray, to cables and mechanisms, should keep them happy and dependable. Not everyone has time, or the inclination to do their own maintenance/servicing.

That’s when a good mobile mechanic, or local bike shop is worth their weight in gold. If you’re in the Tendring area, Justin Burls now offers servicing and repairs, alongside his bespoke titanium bikes/framesets http://www.burls.co.uk/sandr.html  

Punctures, Potions & Preparation

Halloween’s arrival coincided with wetter and classically autumnal conditions. I had a premonition I’d succumb to a flat, an evening or so previously, fuelled by the torrential downpour. Thankfully I’d donned my Lake booties, and done an inventory of the wedge pack. https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/564575290635001/

Spare tubes, tyre levers, 15mm wrench pump all present and in good order. The familiar, wet “hiss fut, hiss fut, fut” and gradual loss of pressure, struck seven miles from base. Having whipped out the rear wheel, I was conscious of a familiar, guttural rumble. No, not my bowels- a V8 engine.

Seconds later, an ambulance cruised to a halt and a Paramedic leaned out from the cab. We exchanged the time of day and, he seemed slightly surprised, by my mid puncture buoyancy. We laughed, bid each other good days. Whatever pierced the Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-fabrications-vitesse  casing had been flushed out-possibly by the air pressure escaping the butyl it bit.  

At least this struck during a gloomy morning, not the dead of night. These contexts proved an ideal test of the Ugoe 2000 lumen headlight’s flashing-as a daylight mode. At the other end of the power spectrum, I’d also reached my verdicts, regarding the Oxford Ultratorch Slimline R100 and R50 lights. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ultratorch-1 These have impressed me, in pretty much every respect. Especially, their performance, relative to asking price. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ultratorch

Spare instated, I then discovered my CO2 cylinder had mysteriously discharged. (This has since been substituted for old faithful, my SKS Air Champ Pro. A big old beast but ultra-dependable).

Out with the mini pump. Two minutes later, I guesstimated 65 psi (the Supple Vitesse EX, recommended minimum), reinstated the wheel, centralising it and adjusting chain tension. Track nuts snugged down, I scooted off, quietly petitioning the god of blowouts, to be merciful.  

Now, in my last entry, I started a 5w/40 motor oil challenge. This was partly to indulge my curiosity and to see just how any miles per application (and theoretically, how cheap) it returns, compared with bike-specific wet lube. Chainsaw oil is the other choice, many swear by. It also forms the basis of Nasty Lube Siberian chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/nasty-lube-siberian-chain-lube   

My Univega was the first recipient but it wasn’t long before my fixed’s KMC X1 followed suit. Motor oil transfers to hands (and pretty much everything else!) quite readily, why this roadside flat was a bit messier than usual. This eventually leads to an indelible, some might say, authentic patina on clothing.

I’m a firm believer in the old saying, that there’s no such thing as the wrong weather, just the wrong kit. However, for the right kit to look after you, it also needs a bit of TLC. Two and three-layer laminates, such as Gore-Tex, eVent and more sophisticated polyester mixes all benefit from periodic treatments.

Soap Flakes is probably the kindest, everyday detergent However, proofing agents, such as this Nikwax Tech Wash, retain and restore the weather repelling, breathable properties.

Genuine leather shoes, gloves, saddles, bar wrap etc also need treating with a decent quality “hide food”. This locks the elements out, which keep them supple and nourished. Much as with motorcycle leathers, apply the food every six weeks, or so. Not too regularly though, since the solvent based blends will rot stitching.

Overshoes are a sensible option during the wetter months, protecting expensive footwear from salty, slushy stuff and rider from chill. Steve (Seven Day Cyclist’s Co-editor) likes them. I prefer the comfort and convenience of booties. For me, frequently rinsing salty spatter and similar contaminant, is a minor trade off.

5W 40 The Motor Oil Challenge

Motor oil has always been cited as an alternative to bike specific wet lubes, especially during the winter months. Some swear by the 50/50 petrol diesel mix during the drier months.

Petrol’s solvent properties will race through any residual grot, leaving the diesel lubricant properties behind.

Lubes such as Finish Line 1-Step cleaner and lubricant, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line  work to much the same principle.

These are effective enough and a better bet, if you’re mixing alchemy leaves something to be desired. Let me go one stage further. Petrochemicals are extremely flammable and potentially lethal, if not stored and administered, correctly.

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREW YOUR OWN. PURCHASE COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE PRODUCTS, AND FOLLOW THEIR STORAGE/APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS, TO THE LETTER.

So then, I’d been out on “the old girl” aka my rough stuff tourer, bumbling along the backroads and bridleways. Though a reasonable amount of waxy prep clung to its cassette, the chain was beginning to look a little too clean. 20 miles later, the familiar faint metal on metal tinkling was beginning to intrude.

Back home, I decided now was the time to give the bike a sudsy bucket wash and baste some Green Oil chain degreaser jelly into the drivetrain.

Now, choice of motor oil is very important. Modern synthetics employ specialist detergents. These are designed to keep the engine clean and be reconstituted within the engine’s oil pump. On a bicycle chain, these detergents will simply strip the lubricant properties. So, that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling will strike-in as little as 30miles, in some instances.

Therefore, something basic, ideally 10w/40 or, as is the case here, a slightly more sophisticated (though cheap as chips) 5w/40 semi synthetic is what’s called for. I decanted a small quantity of the honey coloured lube into a dropper bottle and drizzled a drop into each link. Then any excess was purged from the side-plates, using some clean rag.  No hanging around, waiting for it to cure. Super slick, too.

My cross inspired fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1x inox chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  was also running out of waxy prep, so was also stripped. Yep, 5w/40 followed. Lube tenure on the slippery surface can be a lottery, so I’m not expecting the same Miles Per Application (MPA).

Staying with motor oils a moment, these also make an excellent basis for home brewed wax-based frame preserves. If you’re taxed for time and the frameset isn’t seeing harsh service… Adding a couple of tablespoons worth, of 10w/40 to its inner sanctum, will offer a reasonable amount of protection, against internal corrosion.

Winter bikes sporting decorative electroplate can succumb to the salt monster. My preference is for a high-quality polymer wax preserve. However, giving them a quick oily-rag once-over, will serve as a cheap and relatively effective masking agent.     

Elsewhere and with the clocks going back, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Halo Evura/SP SL9 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  and have switched my focus, to the Ugoe 2000 lumen unit and its F100 and R50 counterparts. I prefer to run two rear blinkies. Traditionally, this has been as a contingency-should one power down/fail, there is always a backup.

Strictly speaking (and according to UK law) a flashing rear light, used in isolation is fine, provided it produces at least 4candela. Personally, to remove any wriggle room (read legal loopholes) I run a steady and flashing unit together.

Up front, a high power lamp is mandatory for navigating but I always pair these with a single, flashing blinker. This serves to identify me as a cyclist (rather than moped, or similar vehicle) on the one hand. It also provides some illumination, while stationary at junctions, tackling roundabouts/similar.

In terms of numbers 15 lumens is adequate for town and suburban riding, 25-35lumens for unlit rural work, although 50odd do come in handy in particularly dark/foggy contexts.

Helmet/luggage mounting is useful, but the bike must also sport one, to comply with the law. A technicality perhaps, if you are illuminated like the proverbial Christmas tree on acid. Alas, one readily exploited by a solicitor, in court...

Master Blasters

We’ve been promised a bitterly cold snap, which has me checking spiked tyres, reg-greasing fixed sprockets, contact points and donning full-length tights. Judging by the forecast, I’ll be dusting down my Lake winter booties, earlier than usual.

Might be an idea to check the central heating oil too, before temperatures plummet and in case tensions worsen, with oil producing nations…

On a cheerier note, Oxford Products have sent me their Ugoe 2000 headlight. Big brother to the 1000 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ugoe-1000-lumen-headlight , it packs a total output of, you guessed it- 2000 lumens. Hopefully enough useable light for 30mph for those beloved backroads. Medium is 1000 lumens, ditto flashing but there’s also a more civilised constant, 500lumen. Arguably more than you’d ever need through the concrete jungle, but not abrasive.

Their F100 and R50 lights are continuing to impress, in every respect.

Sensible modes, incredibly frugal run times and overall build are good by any price point. Run times bear close affinity with their cited reality, which is great news for everyone, although attempting to call their bluff is crucial, from a tester’s perspective.

Thus far, I haven’t found any inconsistencies. Lithium polymer cells certainly help but it’s worth remembering, that run times may vary by a few minutes. Looking after cells by keeping them charged and stored properly makes a world of difference.

Phenomenal at this end of the market. Nonetheless, we’ll see what the next few weeks bring before arriving at any definite conclusions.  Staying with the theme of batteries, John Moss https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/love-resurrection-john-moss-s-tandem has some guidance for looking after/upgrading 18650 lithium ion cells. The sort, such as those employed in Moon Meteor Storm Pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light .

He recommends charging them to 4.1 V and recharging once they reach 3.8V. Doing so will extend their useful life-considerably, compared with charging to 4.2 and discharging to 3.6 V. Allowing the cell to discharge further than this, will kill it. I’ve a feeling this My Tiny Sun battery pack met said end.

Tyres are another consideration before winter strikes. There is always some trade-off between performance and dependability, although this gap has been shrinking, in the same fashion as that, between tubular and wired-on (clincher) types.

Personally, durability has my vote, as the nights become darker and the roads, more challenging. There’s a lot to be said for Schwalbe Marathon 365. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt365-tyre  

They are a bomb-proof, go-anywhere design that will cope with pretty much everything, save for snow. This comes with a palpable weight penalty. The kind folks at Schwalbe have just sent me the 26x2.0 version of their Marathon Mondial Evolution DD.

Though 717g apiece is hardly svelte, its lighter than their 35mm Marathon GT https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt-tyres . According to their blurb, these are an expedition model “The ultimate touring tire, made for road, tracks and trails of all continents”. On paper at least, fitting perfectly with my Univega’s all-terrain, working bike persona.

A 20-mile, mixed terrain blast, suggests swift and yet sure-footed rubber. Looking forward to the next few hundred miles. See how they fare, as the days become shorter and conditions, increasingly wintry.

Root of the Problem

Last week began with, what I suspected, was a dental abscess. This was confirmed by my dentist, He also confirmed my other hunch. 

That the only means of saving, what remained of the crowned tooth, was root canal surgery. Elsewhere, with the nights drawing in, it was time for a quick pre-winter check of the fleet.

Testing of the Vee Tire Co Zilent MK2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vee-tire-co-zilent-mark-2-tyres , I reinstated the Soma Shikoro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/s  and pulled my working fixed’s brake cable through. Pad wear was making itself known. Though there looks to be a few month’s life in them, replacements were ordered. TRP Spyre are by far, the best cable operated disc brake I’ve used to date.

Hydraulic systems are delightful and most modern types automatically adjust to compensate for pad wear. An obvious choice for ‘cross racing and endurance events.  Despite their considerable charms (not to mention, refinement) I love the simplicity of a cable-operated model. Ooooh, then again…TRP Hylex looks perfect for my antics and the bike’s design brief…

Reminds self of dental bills, expiring car components, camera bodies. Lectures self on the difference between want and need. Been an expensive month, with one thing and another.

Despite disc braking’s understandable dominance, there’s a lot to be said in favour of the humble cantilever, especially in a ‘cross context. The Genetic CX https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes , have proved particularly cheerful. However, wide arm designs and smaller semi/compact geometry framesets can be a tricky combination. True, smaller riders tend to have proportionally sized feet, so heel clearance is less crucial.  That said; they can also foul four-point racks and panniers.

Staying with these themes, I was also surprised to discover, during my pre-winter inspection, that its bottle cage had mysteriously fractured. Closer scrutiny suggested the composite monocoque had succumbed to a strange fatigue, I was literally able to bend the winged sections backwards.

This kind of fatigue is something I’d associate with several years’ exposure to harsh UV light. A complete mystery. Aside from very warm summer rides; said bike is always stored in a cool, dry space within the house.

Net effect, I have substituted it for this VEL SE (Side Entry) model https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vel-se . These are also designed to optimise space within smaller main triangles, thus permitting two full sized bottles. Its Tacx radar counterpart, on the down tube is also technically a side entry model. In the sense bottles can be inserted and released at an angle. However, its much closer to a conventional cage. A solid and reliable option, it lacks the space saving efficiency, of the Vel, or indeed Lezyne Flow.     

Cleats are another component all too easily overlooked. After a good year’s faithful service, my genuine Shimano were showing their age. Release was becoming a little too easy. These ISSI popped out at me, while I was rummaging in the kitchen drawer for some AAA batteries. In the zone, following Sunday’s post blast check, one set released effortlessly.

False sense of security flowing through my every fibre, I tackled the other shoe. Once again; the first relented, given a firm twist of the 4mm tool bit. However, the second fastener was clearly made from cheese.

Impacted detritus clearly didn’t help but it was so soft, deforming with unsettling ease. A blast of penetrant spray and a bigger Torx bit, provided enough bite, and clean extraction. Nonetheless, my cordless drill was placed on charge…

While there is no doubting the quality of Shimano, I have always found patterns reliable and generally long-lived. By the same token, were I doing a big tour, especially beyond these shores, I’d stick with big S, simply on grounds of spares availability