Regina & Revision

 Knowing there would be some lead time before the Park Tool materialised, I took the opportunity to periodically flush the freewheel with PTFE spray, leaving it resting, allowing the lube to seep deep inside. Theoretically, this gives best change of release with minimal to moderate effort.  

The tool is coming from Germany since UK suppliers were talking in terms of 5 weeks. Recent transactions with mainland Europe suggest 10 days, although I won’t be holding my breath and I’m also hoping not to be hit with an unexpected (and unwelcome) import charge, since the UK is no longer part of the single market...Something that is having a catastrophic effect upon many businesses and leading to wider shortages, which are thus far, largely masked by the pandemic.  

Re-greasing the hub threads and skewers, with a compatible grease is a given. Lithium pastes may cling on but will lead to galvanic corrosion (seizure) later down the line. Depending on the quality, lithium pastes can also turn a little “clumpy” over time.  

That said; they still have some merit in old-fashioned cup n’ cone hubs, which would include the Athena. However, Park will be doing these duties. Partly as it needs using up and I’m trying to avoid having too many opened greases hanging around-stock rotation you might say.  

My other defaults are Muc-Off Bio grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) and Green Oil Eco Grease TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com), which is reassuringly stiff (long-lasting) for an eco-blend. On par with those infused with PTFE but harmless to seals and other, rubberised components.  

Grease guns are the neatest, cleanest way of delivering lube to surfaces, although sometimes it’s easier to apply via examination gloves, say in cold weather when some formulas assume a thicker, less mobile consistency. 

Thus far, the Bat Wax is proving temperature stable and remains very clean, on both fixed and Ursula, which is pleasing. Miles per application also seems favourable, by genre standards, although miles are suggesting topping up little and often (weekly) gets the very best from it.  

In “Oh well, might as well” mode, I decided to strip the Teenage Dream’s chain and drive side crank, since these were sporting a surprisingly tenacious residual glaze-the remnants of a ceramic wax lube. Being a petrochemical blend, I would need to strip it anyway. Another little job off the list.  

The square taper Campagnolo crankset literally popped off the taper and plenty of grease remained on the bolt threads. These were several years old and otherwise untouched, which illustrates how often I ride it in the rain.  

Those couple of drops on the Kinekt 2.1 Suspension seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) also seem to be keeping its moving parts quiet and sweet.  Talking of which, though roads in my locale are quieter and crucially, less frenetic than other parts of the UK, there’s been a steady increase in traffic as the lockdown restrictions remained and are now steadily relaxing.  

Though caution and critical thinking need to be deployed when watching footage, regrettably a third lockdown is on the cards. Open borders and the novelty of public spaces, such as pubs and bars reopening are an incendiary mix, least since alcohol and social distancing seem mutually incompatible.  

A few months regular service and I’ve reached my conclusions re the Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) switching to the Kinekt Waterproof Seat PackKINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), I was surprised to discover the Kinekt 2.1 had left a noticeable calling card on the Zefal’s sturdy fabric, suggesting there’s a sound argument for suspension specific luggage, or at least checking compatibility with closer scrutiny.  

Rule of thumb, based upon long-term pairings with suspension posts, suggests supple fabrics that can assume the suspension components’ profile fare better than laminated/ TPU types.   

 

Wax, Wheels, Caps & Brexit Bite

Easter’s bitterness has given way to fluctuating temperatures, so I’ve switched the wardrobe around a bit. ¾ lengths and shorts have been making appearances and I’ve switched to summer-weight caps, socks and gloves. Models such as this Buff Pack BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) wick faster, which is also helpful when conditions turn showery.  

A decent peak will also protect the eyes and face from the sun, blustery winds, and airborne particles. April’s changeable nature means I’ve been sticking with photochromic eyewear, which adjusts to different light progressively and accurately. This eliminates any need to switch lenses should strong sunlight give way to dull and overcast conditions. Liner-type gloves are another useful bridge between seasons, although look for those with some form of palm padding. I’m still very fond of these Specialized, which sport nice ulnar defending detailing.

 

The Bat wax is also notable for its cleanliness and staying prowess. Admittedly, I've not encountered monsoon rains (but few people would go the wax route, knowing this was forecast). However, it seems temperature stable. I was surprised to learn 'it's a synthetic wax employing a water-based carrier. The synthetic particles are apparently more tunable, hence it’s a thinner layer, which attracts less dirt, whereas old school formulas tend to trap the grit in the top layer and eventually flake away, leaving a thin lubricant layer behind.   

Clean drivetrains are good practice full stop. Essential when switching between lubricants, especially those of different genres. Wax formulas ae particularly sensitive to any pre-existing lubricant, especially petrochemicals. My fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain being a case in point.  

I had treated it to a good, but not meticulous clean, hence why the Univega’s transmission remains pristine, and it quickly assumed a superficially scuzzy state. Deep cleans are essential when fitting fresh chains, especially if you are opting for something water/emulsion-based.  

Otherwise, the pre-existing layer will simply float the wax away. Having established this was just unsightly and wasn’t impairing performance, I removed the drive side cranks and treated the ring and chain to a liberal helping of degreaser. In this instance, I reached for Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and chased any residual with Pure Bike Degreaser PURE BIKE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I was surprised by the glaze of impacted, matted ceramic and wax formulas clinging to the Genetic Tibia ring GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but this combination stripped it bare, with some gentle agitation and a liberal, warm water rinse.  Steve has been quite impressed with Muc-Off Bio Degreaser MUC-OFF BIO DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Dried, refitted and tension tweaked, I applied another helping of Bat Wax and left curing for seven hours, before popping out for an evening blast. I’d passed the 250mile mark on Ursula before things turned a bit filmy, so just added another light coat, put the old girl away and then left the Bat Wax curing for another 24 hours. Drizzled a couple of drops on the cleat mechanisms and the Kinekt 2.1 Seatpost’s moving components KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was there, and the post was emitting a very subtle squeak.  

Decided it was also time to do some refurbishment of the Teenage dream’s wheelset. Nothing major, since they are basically true (although would benefit from a wheel builder’s touch) and have seldom seen wet roads these past 30 years. 

 

However, I’d need to whip the freewheel and I may as well strip and regrease the Athena hub, while I’m there. The freewheel was caked in a waxy glaze, which was useful enough protection in storage but looked scuzzy, so dismissed and I treated the freewheel to liberal helpings of heavy-duty PTFE lube, while I wait for the Park Tool FR4 freewheel removal tool to show up.  

Thanks to the combination of Covid 19 and Brexit, stocks are low, and the original, proposed supplier was talking in terms of 5-6 weeks lead time. Another says two weeks, so I’ve gone that route. These long lead times are also affecting other industries- replacement car components being one of them. Particularly (although not exclusively) those for European marques. Then, of course, there are additional tariffs, likely arising from the UK’s hard Brexit- an unwelcome double whammy.  

That aside; nice to see that Park still offers one, since while fond of retro, I’m not paying fancy prices. That goes for cars, motorcycles, cameras too.  I’m very attached to the “Teenage Dream” and it’s still a joy to ride, but quaint by contemporary standards. Ah but while the nostalgic is misguided and arguably unable to embrace the future, the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing...