Double Pleasure

 

No, not that sort-I’m referring to a 36/26 Deore Crankset complete with front mech and cables for less than the cost of a couple of rings. Be rude not to, since I was bound to wear Denise’s existing Deore 1x at some point in the not-too-distant future- it was the original ring and had served on Ursula before that.

Denise’s existing KMC chain was registering .5 on the chain checker. Late middle age in chain terms, so another thing I would need to be switching at some point.

While there was still some life in the existing KMC, I decided to mount the crankset, before going for a front mech and (bar con) shifter route. This was to check whether the existing 106 links was sufficient, or whether I might need 108. I’d some pre-cut (106 link) chains in stock, so would be nice if that was so.

In terms of front mech, given the frameset’s age, I reasoned, like Ursula, the seat tube was 28.6 and had originally looked for another STX. However, front mechs are fairly crude beasts, so I wasn’t going to pay over the odds. This top pull SR Suntour triple was along similar lines and seemed a good bet, especially teamed with a Microshift bar end shifter, which offered plenty of scope for adjustment and fine-tuning.

Before the crankset and front mech arrived, I’d gone on a quick “Easter Egg” hunt for shifter, cables, pre-cut chain and set them aside. The following morning, having returned from a ride, I decided to measure up (guestimate) for the front mech’s positioning, removing the seat tube bottle cage and applying some helicopter tape where the mech’s band on clamp would most likely rest.

Next, I noticed some mysteriously chipped paint on the seat stay carrier boss. Out with the fastener and a quick lick of high-build primer followed-another little job off the list. Since I also needed to reposition the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp, so decided to install the Microshift bar end shifter, one that had commanded Ursula’s STX front mech, prior to the frame’s repair, modernisation and makeover.

I didn’t want to get to the point of no return, rather where I could progress but without being committed, able to break and reflect as required. Just as well, since the gear cable housing I’d ordered hadn’t materialised. I’m sure I had some but ordered more. I wanted to check 106 links was of the correct length and, given the existing was 106 and still had sufficient life, I bolted the 2X Deore crankset in situ and set everything up to ride.

 Afterall, if the Crane Cousins could journey to the centre of the earth sans front mech, I could for a week, or two.  While we all like stuff that comes together first time and with minimal faff, there’s something very satisfying about fine tuning.  At this point, I was suddenly struck, dare I say attacked by a horrific thought- that the mech wouldn’t reach the rings. Offering the mech up quashed this anxiety and also confirmed its ideal mounting point-phew! 

On the stand, everything seemed to behave and the rear mech didn’t look unduly strained and was replicated in subsequent rides, so when some Shimano gear cables arrived, I removed the chain, offered the SR Suntour mech up and, it fouled the rear tyre…Confidence drained from me like a straining tea bag. Two options…Buy a new mech, an STX or Deore LX from this period. Or…Switch Ursula’s STX for the SR Suntour. I did both.

Found a Deore LX for less than £10 and was relieved to discover ample room between Ursula’s rear tyre, even with a 2.3. Given I wasn’t going the triple route, I was confident the SR Suntour would play nicely, and it did. A fresh inner wire, some adjustment of the H/L screws, and the cage scooped the chain back and forth dutifully. Cable pruned and glued, I turned my attention to Denise. Existing KMC chain split, I mounted the STX, fitted a fresh KMC and wired everything up. To my relief, save for some tweaking of the limit screws, the cage swept the chain between rings.

Some would argue mullet drivetrains are a better bet and on some technical grounds, I’d agree, but the 36/26 11-25 setup gives me a good, knee-friendly spread between 28.4 and 89 inches. I’d also been toying with replacing the Suntour XC SE cantilever. These are a rear-specific design from the late 1980s and still offer decent performance. However, adjustment is a little more involved compared with a traditional cantilever. I was also seeking something period-sensitive but without paying period prices

Tektro CR720 were an obvious default-sensibly priced and certainly up to the job…Then someone waved these NOS (New Old Stock) Kore under my nose for less than £10. A third of the Tektro’s rrp, so no debate there. Again, I needed to replace the inner wire, and wanted to inspect and most likely, re-grease the bosses, so then was the time.

By contrast, the Kore were very easy to set up- I just added some sped grease to the bosses, slotted everything in situ, and adjusted with a 5mm Allen key and 10mm ring spanner. The left balance screw needed a quick turn-using a 3mm Allen key common to all modern multi-tools. Talking of which, I'm off to fine-tune the rear mech.

 

Revisions & Regaining Trust

 

I’d found myself a little tentative, following the blowout and subsequent long walk home with Denise. Rationally, I’d switched the tube, replaced the rim tape- both fresh, so no reason I’d succumb to a mechanical. I’d also given the cassette and chain a good clean, stripping the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather for its dry counterpart. The chain was worn to .5, so still had some life, maybe three hundred miles, depending on conditions.

Against this backdrop, I’d decided the best tactic was to pop out on a shorter evening loop-8 miles, taking in some gravel and rougher roads, ruling out any tyre, or tube issues and also getting a better idea of how the big wide, swoopy WTB bars would improve control in these contexts.

I’m still very fond of the original Soma Condor TEST: SOMA CONDOR HANDLEBAR and would recommend them to those seeking a shallow reach drop, whether it be a cyclo cross, touring, or drop bar mountain bike. However, the WTB Mountain Road Drop definitely have an edge on the control front off road. I’d forgotten how good they were and so glad I kept them. On-One’s Midge were another surprisingly good budget buxom bar and these were also available in 25.4 and 31.8, catering for old school mountain bike stems and obviously, more contemporary models.

The larger diameter was less whippy, giving a more direct feel on the road but without feeling harsh off road. Aside from the control factor, flared drops open the chest cavity further, improving climbing prowess on longer ascents, which is something I’ve traditionally enjoyed on the fixed gear winter trainer.

However, I’ve settled to subtle riser drops, these Genetic D-Riser 4 GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing have struck the best balance for road duties, their D-Riser 16 GENETIC D RISER 16 BARS | cycling-not-racing arguably win by a nose if gravel, cyclo cross and possibly trailer tugging duties are your primary duties.

The other advantage the Genetic offer over the likeable Soma is uniform diameter across the top section, meaning accessories are easier to fit.  More subtle designs such as the Genetic also have an advantage when riding into headwinds, given the narrower surface area.      

Five miles under the tyres, turning right along a section of disused airfield I began to relax, engaging with the evening sun and letting rip. Though I hadn’t intended to change the bars, this proved an inspired choice and sensibly undertaken when the bike was already awaiting minor work. I’ll switch the Leatt Endurance 6.0 over to Denise and the M540 back to Muffin.

The Leatt 6.0 have proven very impressive on the fixed. The Cro-moly axles and 6061 bodies provide a very rigid, supportive platform, which was particularly apparent when climbing out of the saddle or otherwise accelerating hard. Obviously, Muffin’s relatively lofty bottom bracket and 165mm cranks help, but there’s generous clearance, so no fear of grounding a pedal during enthused cornering. The black anodised finish is also wearing well with the regular clippings in and out. Bearings are not only incredibly well sealed but employ needle and ball bearings.  It will be interesting to see how they fare off road.    

Staying with off road rubber a moment, here’s my review of the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing

I’d had Muffin’s Giant Continuum 9 Wireless Computer head unit go rogue. Changing the CR2032 cell seemed the most obvious solution-the sensor cells can go with little warning, regardless of whether premium or generic cells are used. I always apply a thin lick of Vaseline or silicone grease to the contacts, optimising connectivity, while sealing the elements out.

However, the head unit would not calibrate correctly, so I decided to salvage what I could- CR2032 cell, fork sensor and silicone casing, since Ursula and Denise still run them. I’ve had a year’s service out of it, and some might say my £9 worth. I spotted some NOS Blackburn computers and went for a pair, just in case another of the Continuum should fail unexpectedly.    I’ll close here with this review of the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench | cycling-not-racing

    

 

Shot Bearings & Long Walks Home

 

 

No sooner had I got everything as I'd wanted, the SP PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD dynohub bearings got the grumbles- I couldn't christen the sound mid ride but having gently spun the wheel on my return, some grumbling and play was tangible. I love the SP units in terms of value and performance, but the need for factory rebuilds every few years (typically 20,000 miles) is inconvenient, especially since it means tearing the wheel apart. I've decided I'll switch the Ryde/ Nexus wheel from Denise longer term and get a Shimano Ultegra built into another Ryde Sputnik hoop. For now, I’ve fitted the Halo/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing to Muffin, so all good.  

A straightforward job, until I discovered my Cyclo Cassette remover had gone AWOL. I wasted no time in ordering a replacement, but knew the Cyclo tool couldn’t be far away. True to form, it emerged the following evening, but by then, I’d also ordered a pattern replacement. However, being as these things are inexpensive, it’ll come in handy-I’ll store it safely away in my cantilever toolbox.

Otherwise, Muffin and I are bonding very nicely. The bigger head and down tubes seem to offer greater stiffness and improved power when accelerating and indeed, climbing, without trading any of steel’s trademark compliant zing. Warmer days and lighter evenings have allowed me to enjoy a different riding pattern, dare I say perspective, not only when it comes to testing products but winding down from the wider world, contemplating and compartmentalising other things.

A quick 15 miles confirmed all was sorted and another thing off my list. It also presented an opportunity to get some miles in on Denise with the Leatt SPD pedals. At least this was the idea. 10 miles into our first outing, I succumbed to another rear flat and the spare tubes also blew their last-weakened seams, in case you were curious.  Looking closely, I concluded that the rim tape was beginning to slip, this exposing the spoke head, causing a pinch flat. There were two by the point I’d concluded the rim tape was to blame. I decided to go for tubeless rim tape, since I’d gone this route before with Ursula, following a spate of flats.

Being thicker and adhesive, there’s little chance of a spoke-induced hiss. While awaiting delivery, I decided I needed to switch bars and replace a cable. I was due to give the stem bolts a re-greasing, but before I knew it, had switched Denise to the WTB Mountain Road Drop Bar. This also necessitated a longer outer housing for the front brake, and I also noted some fraying of the inner wire, so replaced while I wasn’t going to be using the bike. Though I’d expected the Wolf Tooth Supple Bar Tape to be sufficiently long, the WTB drops have more flare than the Soma they replace, so a slight gamble. One that paid off on this occasion.      

As a side note, the Leatt are Shimano compatible, although the entry and release lacked the same finesse with the XT and M540, which came as a slight culture shock at the close of our first outing aboard Muffin. Continuing the gravel narrative, I've been sent these full finger Lomo Mountain bike gloves, which are available in two colourways and, in the tradition of Lomo, appears phenomenally good value for money.    

 

Rides have always helped when it comes to reflection and putting issues into perspective.  The sense of leaving everything behind. Exam stress, broken relationships, crap jobs, difficult housemates, relationships etc. Richard Ballantine reflected on this construct within his books- difficult people, neighbours and anything else that impairs one’s sense of equilibrium and well-being.

I’m very adept at dealing with difficult people and situations professionally but will not invite anyone into my world who doesn’t bring a sense of positive, genuine peace.  I’ve always been a gang of one. I certainly don’t shun people, but I don’t collect them, suffer fools gladly, nor am I prepared to go through the motions to fit in. Despite this, I was surprisingly “put out” at being blanked by a man who rides a carbon fibre Bianchi in these parts. I don’t expect much- a simple nod in acknowledgement-from one human to another…Go figure.     

Muffin Racks up The Miles

 

Having tweaked the chain tension and tightened the ring bolts to 10nm, I was feeling more confident with Muffin and keen to gently rack up some miles to bed everything in properly and possibly reflect on further modifications/upgrades. Frankly, I’d built with everything I’d intended, rather than older parts and compromises.  Consumables such as chains, sprockets and bar tapes will be replaced but nothing major.

After some deliberation, I found myself pruning the chain by two links, sliding the frame forward in the dropouts and getting the chain play to 1/2inch, which is the textbook suggested ideal. I also found myself replacing the inner brake wire, then dialling in the TRP Spyre, which improved stopping somewhat. Presented the ideal opportunity to play with the Park torque wrench some more.  Simple tweaks can often make huge differences. I also run a little scrap butyl where the frame fit pump rests against the top tube’s underside, protecting it from unwanted rub and ultimately, paint damage.

Though the V2 was always fun and predictable, Muffin’s bigger clearances, improved lateral stiffness and general modernisations make for a very well-balanced machine with a magic carpet ride-especially with the Continental. These clearances also mean I can run 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter (spikes) during the darker months. Features that better suits my riding style. That said, I remain fond of the V2 and its geared, first generation Kaffenback (Think Café’ & back) cousin (which would also take 32mm tyres including mudguards). Think winter/trainer cum working bike, although some folks report theirs were reliable lightweight tourers- I can well believe it.

Talking of small jobs, shoe cleats are often neglected, and these Shimano had served me very well but were showing obvious signs of deterioration. Mercifully, the bolts, though slightly arthritic came away with a quick shot of Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing. I had thought one wasn’t going to budge, calling for the drill bity but thankfully this also shifted with a T25 Torx. I instated the new Leatt cleats with a liberal helping of Oxford Toque Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing and torqued them to 4nm using the Velo Tool Torque Wrench.

 I’d also been keen to test the effectiveness of some degreasers on waterproof grease. Ironically, Ursula’s Shimano XT seemed slightly reticent to budge. A quick shot of MO94 helped with this reticence. Some Park Tool PL1000TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES still remained on the threads, which is impressive, since it had been a year or so since I removed them. I treated them to a modest helping of degreaser, reinstating them with a liberal lick of Oxford Torque Assembly Grease. 

Ursula and I have also been enjoying further exploratory meanders far from the maddening crowd. The CST Patrol is running behind, the Continental Cross King Black Chil up front. There’s a method to this, primarily since the CST Patrol are slightly narrower, thus giving greater clearance at the rear triangle. The Patrol are also 80g heavier than the Cross Kings and I’m wondering if this has any connection to the EPS (Extreme Puncture Safety) belt, which is 4 on CST’s scale. It also allows me to compare rolling resistance and similar performance characteristics.

 I’m genuinely impressed by both at the moment and in similar contexts, although there’s a substantial price differential between them. The Patrol (at least in 26inch guise) aren’t tubeless ready, which may be a consideration, nay dealbreaker for some. I can appreciate some very palpable advantages of tubeless setups but on balance, still prefer tubes, whether the humble butyl, or TPU.   

 Either way, both tyres are providing a dependable, compliant ride over some very badly surfaced gravel roads and farm tracks. Longer excursions also confirm I’ve got Ursula’s saddle height absolutely right.      

      

 

 

Shakedowns & Subtle Tweaks

 

 Built, checked and tweaked, it was time to take “Muffin” the Mulo for a quick 15mile shakedown ride. I’d erred on the side of less chain tension with a view to dialling it in, rather than too tight.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, given my switch to 40mm tyres, the ride quality was much smoother, though it wasn’t difficult to coax “Muffin” up to speed and keep on the boil- 41cm chainstays certainly help. The front end also feels more responsive, without being twitchy, and the frame’s lateral stiffness is also an improvement over the otherwise very loveable V2.

Predictably, I needed to tweak the Aheadset bearing tension and found myself switching the TRP Spyre for its loftier SLC stablemate, having given the calliper a good clean and replaced the pads. Three rides in and I detected the ring bolts needed snugging down slightly. A small, insignificant job…

However, my Park pattern tool that holds the collar still while you tighten the 5mm/T30 Torx bolt wasn’t arresting the collar properly. This prompted purchase of a T handle design from a well-known London bike dealership that I frequented regularly when living in the capital.

Given it was a bank holiday weekend, I had to wait a day or two, which presented an ideal opportunity to hop aboard Ursula and get some miles in on the Continental Cross Kings. Having enjoyed a frolic through the forests, I found myself being chased by an incredibly determined goose. Mercifully, I was able to outpace-either that, or the goose recognised I wasn’t a threat.

550 miles racked up with The CST Patrol, I’m generally impressed by their capabilities as wallet-friendly all-rounders, although I’ve noted the Continental Cross King Black Chili require less effort to coax up to speed in comparable contexts/conditions. Puncture resistance, specifically vulnerability to hedge clippings and similar sharps was an issue I’d had with earlier incarnations of the Cross Kings, so it will be interesting to see how influential the Black Chili compound is. While testing the CST Patrol’s prowess, I happened upon a completely deserted stretch of unmade and sometimes quite technical gravel road.

I’d had a quick exploratory hoss along the bridleway on previous occasions but was deterred of further exploration due to farm traffic and general agricultural activity. The Patrol coped handsomely, offering excellent traction, control and indeed cushioning over the lumpy, bumpy and sometimes pot holed route, which ran for a mile or two.    

I’d also switched from the Motorex Wax Lube to Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather courtesy of Dynamic Bio Drivetrain Detox. The Link Lube All Weather is best thought of as a bridge lube for those conditions where you want something more substantial than a wax, or dry formula but with a friskier shifting and feel than traditional middleweights.

Wax chain lubes may be less stoical than other types, but in my experience, they can congeal quite stubbornly, particularly on rings and cassettes. While the Dynamic was visually engaging and crucially stripped the rings and cassette clean with nominal effort, it was slower acting than some degreaser stocks I’ve evaluated over the years.

Water must be applied to the hosts beforehand and The Drivetrain Bio Drivetrain Detox left to marinate for two to three minutes, so one of those formulas seemingly best suited to holistic bike cleans, rather than situations where the bike’s fundamentally clean, but you just want to change lube.  It’s also reckoned sufficiently potent to strip waterproof greases, so we’ll see. 

Back to “Muffin” Chain ring tool in hand, I whipped out the Park Tool Wrench, dialled it up to 10nm, introduced the crank bolt tool-Huzzah! Another little job done. Talking of torque Wrenches, here’s my mini budget model group test Three Budget Torque Wrench Test | cycling-not-racing

 

 

  

Emerging from the Garage

 

A busy week. Having got Meg, the Magic Micra serviced and MOT’d and narrowly avoided acquiring a 1992 Suzuki GS500E project, I sought solace in the garage and continued stripping my fixed gear winter/trainer, cleaning parts before transferring them to the Mulo frameset. Some things were bin fodder, others model specific. The Mulo’s head tube is tapered, 1.5 inches at the base, which wasn’t problematic since I had an integrated Cane Creek cartridge bearing headset and compatible fork that I’d bought for metaphorical pennies a year or so back.

The problem being, I didn’t have a suitable setting tool (rammer, in casual parlance). I didn’t want to purchase another, spending money and wasting time, so headed out to my local mechanic brandishing biscuits. They kindly set the crown race down, while I was doing a Tour De Morrisons and I returned the favour with a twin pack of chocolate digestives.

I returned and began building the frameset, having applied helicopter tape and old inner tube to select areas, coupled with liberal helpings of waxy corrosion inhibitor within the frame’s inner sanctum and allowing it 24 hours to cure. Liberal helpings of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice to the bearings, a lighter application to the crown race. Elsewhere, I opted for Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing since it’s a sturdy, carbon compatible blend.

Everything came together surprisingly easily, save for a schoolboy error-me mounting the new ring inboard of the crank spider, bring everything flush against the chainstay. An easy fix but consumed some time. Wheels and chain followed- I’d gone for the 40mm Continental Pure Contact since clearances allowed.

I’d opted for the beefy Izumi 410 and the 17tooth Halo sprocket means a gear of 69inches. Easily tensioned, I fitted the Gravel Hugger guards, then the Topeak Super Tourist DX 2.0 Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing- a light coating of Oxford Mint Assembly Grease on the treads and forming a seal so the elements couldn’t sneak past and cause mischief.  I decided to call it a day, popped the Mulo away. I revisited with fresh eyes two mornings later.                     

Some Leatt SPD arrived for testing but for the time being, I'm sticking with the ultra-dependable and long serving Shimano M540, switching the Leatt between Denise and Ursula to assess their mud shedding trail capabilities first.  The Leatt Endurance 6.0 are intended at cross country mountain bike and gravel audiences and have a reassuringly high specification. 6061T6 aluminium alloy bodies (shot peened to prevent stress fractures turn on cro-moly axles) and more interestingly, a LSL self-lubricating bushing, a needle bearing, and an industrial roller bearing. Quad seals promise to keep the grease in and elements out. Stainless steel bindings and Shimano pattern cleats continue the durable narrative.   

On the topic of mud, I continue to be impressed by the CST Patrol, which though not the lightest of cross-country rubber, seem to perform consistently well across a broad range of conditions, while proving highly puncture resistant. No punctures to date.

Loosely comparable with Continental Cross King- another cross-country design with quick rolling charms and modest weight but in my experience, prone to flats-flints and hedge clippings specifically. Continental have sent me the latest versions, which now feature the brands black chili technology. This is a sophisticated polymer promising to improve grip, rolling resistance and wear. It will be interesting to see how they compare with the CST Patrol, particularly on the reliability front. The Continental sport a similar tread pattern and also feature a fibrous puncture repelling weave beneath the belt.

Staying with puncture resistance, I’ve experienced two pinhole flats over the course of two consecutive rides with the rear Pirelli Cinturato, leading me to switch the rear for Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing Thankfully the tubes only succumbed to a tiny pin-prick, so easily patched and returned to the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing . The Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing has proven an absolute godsend on these occasions, especially since I needed to be back pronto to facilitate a few things.

During this phase, I removed Ursula and Denise’s seat posts, blasted some Supertrol into the seat tubes, added another lick of grease to the posts, refitted, nipping them to 5 and 6nm respectively with the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench. This also gave opportunity to refine Ursula’s saddle height, raising the Kinetic 2.1 Suspension Seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing a further few millimetres.