Bearings, Blowouts & Broken Frames…

 

Good Friday came along and after a couple of weeks whizzing along the lanes and unmade roads aboard Denise, I decided it was time for a good clean, polish, and some light rest. I also reverted to the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather, since it’s a bit more stoical than the Motorex, but without attracting much grot.

I’d bought some replacement bearings as a standby for when the OEM Stronglight balls get choppy and indeed, this sealed cartridge bearing Tange come time the Stronglight needs retiring. It was only a few quid dearer than the A9ST.  

The generally dry spell had presented opportunity to top up the waxy corrosion inhibitor on the KA and Micra chassis, underbody, door and sills. It would cure quickly and lock the elements out.

Naturally, I also treated my steel framesets a quick blast through their “breathe holes”, since I was on this corrosion busting mission. These and similarly small jobs sorted, I decided it was time to dust the fixed gear winter/trainer down and give it a few outings. Our first confirmed I’d the chain tension a little too tight, inducing minor faff but I was more irked by myself not getting it right first time.

It was tempting to replace the budget chain for the higher end Izumi in some respects, but this was making unnecessary work for myself, especially since the budget brownie hadn't covered any significant mileage and would probably sit unused. Just a matter of sliding the wheel slightly further forward in the dropouts and fine tuning with the chain tugs.

Or so I thought… Regular washing, waxing and lightly lubricating stuff extends component life considerably. However, even simple drivetrains wear out and though I’d regularly replaced chains, I’d not changed the ring, or sprocket in a while. During this inspection, I also noted some corrosion around the frame’s chainstay bridge, which had also spread to the right-hand stay. The only sensible option was to strip the components and scrutinise properly, rather than speculate.

I generously grease stuff during installation, so bottom bracket and other threaded components all spun free with only modest effort.

Deep degreasing and close inspection of the Genetic Tibia ring revealed some hooking and related wear, so I ordered a replacement along with a 17tooth Halo fat sprocket. I’d a fresh UN55 bottom bracket in stock, so plucked that out, since it had been over four years since I last fitted one.  The biggest surprise was a healthy layering of Park Polylube TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES clinging to the chain ring bolts several years down the line.

The Mulo is arguably closer to a gravel, rather than cross build. Room for 700x40c, tapered head tube and bigger downtube for additional stiffness. On-One also opted for a more traditional mudguard bridge mount, albeit behind the wishbone mono-stay. The top tube cable run is also very different, but interestingly, On-One has retained cantilever (or V brake) posts.  Legally, fixed doesn’t require a mechanical rear brake, since the transmission is recognised as a secondary stopper. Hence, I only use a front brake.  More about that later…

Easter Sunday brought a blowout. I was a few miles from home, really enjoying Denise’s responsive but reliable persona. A loud pop was followed by a rapid and similarly audible hiss. Rummaging through the Zefal Adventure R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing I found four tubes. However, seems I’d not patched two of them, evident when I began introducing some pressure from the Muc-Off Airmach Pump.

Having found suitably sound butyl and checked the rear Pirelli Cinturato for sharps and similar damage Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing   I whipped everything back together and got busy with the Muc-Off Airmach Mini Inflator Pro. 55psi later I was homeward bound again. Having returned, I needed to adjust the Suntour SE rear brake slightly. An easy fix-done in three minutes with a 16mm cone wrench, 5mm Allen key and ring spanner.

I’m pleasantly surprised by the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Driver.  Preset torque wrenches have been around a while, but adjustable models are, in my view, what we need and becoming increasingly affordable.  

Ok, some folks will argue 4,5 and 6nm are still limited but they cover the sort of routine adjustments we’re likely to make mid ride. Raising, re-aligning (or dropping) the saddle a few millimetres, tweaking cleat tension, nipping stem, mudguard, bottle cage bolts tight etc. Oh, obviously you’ll still need a multi tool for slackening duties, otherwise (and in common with workshop models) you’ll risk damaging the mechanism.  

Just Changing A Cable

 

Needing a break from the screen, I decided my fixed gear winter/trainer needed a quick polish. Noted the brake inner wire had begun fraying, so decided I’d switch that, since it was a simple job and no time like the present right? New cable fitted; I couldn’t get the Spyre SLC calliper to behave properly. I stripped and cleaned, and things were certainly improved but not as they should be. Most annoying was the binding right pad, which despite considerable gentle coaxing and patience wouldn’t behave.

Time is a finite resource, so I swapped over to an older Spyre unit I had prepped during Ursula’s rebuild. By contrast, this behaved impeccably first time, so I pulled the inner wire through a little further. Said overhaul also led me to switch the Deda Loop bar tape for the T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar Tape T-ONE MR FANTASTIC HANDLEBAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing , since the Deda had weathered somewhat.

The T-One Mr Fantastic Handlebar tape is still going strong a few years and three bar switches since. It’s easier to clean, compared with the embossed and similarly sturdy Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape | Seven Day Cyclist too, although that was another contender.  

The bar bags were switched since I needed to remove the Oxford to perform the cable replacement. Satisfied all was well, I tackled the aesthetic and polished the frameset and carbon bottle cages, the latter had lost their lustre slightly, but this was easily recovered using some BBB Bioready wash bike shampoo and its biowax stablemate.

These are very effective for rapid cleaning of lightly soiled bikes, or those times when you’ve replaced a component and got oily fingerprints on an otherwise clean machine. Durability isn’t on par with those containing Carnauba wax, such as this Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing  but bargain on a few weeks in primarily dry to fair weather conditions.

Grand finale’, I gave the Muc Off AirMach Electric Mini Inflator Pro a quick test. The 32mm Pirelli Angel DTPirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing and Schwalbe One365 were completely deflated and raised to 80 and 105psi respectively. The pump delivered the goods, but by that point, the battery was down to 30% -in theory still enough to raise another flaccid tyre, though reinforces my point about always carrying a traditional pump, just in case…I’ve also managed to raise a 26x2.3 from 0-55psi and this Maxxis RavagerMaxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (700x40) from 0-55psi with 30% battery charge remaining.

I'd made something a faux pas, believing I had 3/8" bits compatible with the Park Tw torque wrench. Further investigation contradicted this, but Madison's press officer graciously supplied a batch covering the most common jobs home mechanics are likely to undertake. Ironically, while hunting for the non-existent 3/8" bits, I found an 8mm dual end wrench-I'd been looking for that while tweaking the barrel adjuster on Denise's front stopper. I carry a crude but surprisingly effective "giveaway" spanner. Does the job without rounding off but not the most pleasant to use. I was looking (lusting after?) Specialized's Rock Combo one evening, needing a reminder of the original specification and suddenly got the idea of switching Denise's cantilevers to the Dia Compe 984D.

However, I rapidly dismissed this as change for change's sake, not least as I'd got the front Shimano CX50 honed and recently bought some fresh pads. Though it can occasionally prove a little temperamental, the rear Suntour SE is reliable and was dirt cheap- hence I'd bought a second NOS (New Old Stock). I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the Pirelli Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing. There are some minor shortcomings but they seem particularly suited to my riding environments.  

The Stronglight A9 headset was still behaving impeccably and had been given a liberal helping of Juice Bearing Juice. I'd made a boot from scrap butyl tube for the lower race. However, would be worth getting in some spares £2.99 or thereabouts. I should point out this version employs ball, not cartridge bearings.  

Always better to replace the bearings before brinelling and pitting strikes, although keeping them well-greased and properly adjusted is key to keeping the elements out and general longevity. During this phase, I also noted some minor slop in Ursula’s FSA, so eliminated that and nipped the stem bolts snug using the Oxford Torque 2-24nm Torque wrench.   

Bottom Bracket Bites The Dust

 

Once again, Ursula's front mech began misbehaving. The first time, I returned and discovered some slop in the Hollowtech II crankset. Hmm, curious, but nothing a quick tweak of the bearing tension wouldn't fix, right? 

The following outing and yep, the play hard returned, signalling the ti bottom bracket's cartridge bearings were spent. I'd bought a couple of XT units in preparation for this, or similar expiry.  No time like the present.

Being well greased, the crankset and bottom bracket released very easily. I gave Ursula's bottom bracket shell a careful cleaning, introduced some Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing, applied a light coating to the XT bottom bracket and then sped it home.  Talking of grease, Steve’s been long term testing this Blub Lithium GreaseBlub Lithium Grease | cycling-not-racing

I went the deep clean route with the rings and spider a ride or two later but was more concerned with getting everything home and ruling out anything else. I reached for the Peaty’s Speed GreasePEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing and applied this to the Deore cranksets axle, reducing the friction, while keeping corrosion and similar hassles at bay. A quick nudge of the 10mm preload cap, confirmed my diagnosis was correct, the titanium unit’s ceramic bearings were indeed shot.

Double checked, I wound the pinch bolts home to 14nm, spun the cranks-all sorted. Another little job off the list, although in retrospect, I might've been better served going for the XT following Ursula's frame refurb and modification.  Some greasy finger marks adorning the right chainstay and bottom bracket shell were effortlessly dismissed with the BBB Bio Ready wash and a retired sock.

During this phase, I was also convinced I had another, a third Hollowtech II bottom bracket hiding away in the spares boxes. With a little time on my hands, I took this opportunity to root around, emerging victorious. It features the usual fit n’ forget bearings, aluminium cups and a composite component. This saves 20g or so over the titanium Van Nicholas, although I’m confident the bearings won’t last nearly so long.  Nice to have another handy, though-even if only as a stop-gap.

A few weeks and many mixed terrain miles down the line, the CST Patrol continue to impress with their all-rounder prowess, proving suitably swift on pockmarked asphalt, unmade roads and dirt trails. Impossible to comment on their mud churning prowess given it's been refreshingly dry of late. The EPS belt seems similarly effective at keeping flints and other sharps from causing mischief. However, rains and boggy conditions may tell a different story.  

Staying with tyres and inflation, I’m extremely fond of mini-inflators, which while not quite magic bullets, save time and effort when recovering from wounded butyl. I’ve tested a fair few in recent months and to date, my favourite is the CYC PLUS AS2 Pro Max E PumpCycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing . The relatively large battery will inflate up to 4 tyres between charges, which is great for longer rides, especially bigger volume gravel and mountain bike rubber. It also features a digital pressure gauge, taking the guesswork out of things, so there’s only operator error to blame if you’ve whacked in too much pressure.

More compact models fit better in jersey pockets. I’m fond of Muc Off’s Air Mach Electric Mini Inflator Muc-Off Air Mach Electric Mini Inflator | cycling-not-racing  it charges from zero to 100 in 25 minutes and capable of 100psi. However, and this goes for other designs with 7.5v 300mAh batteries, I’d advocate carrying a decent pump as a backup, should you succumb to a further, or multiple flats during a ride.

Against this backdrop, I’d spotted their PRO version, which in my view is a great improvement and could give the competition a good run for your hard earned. £100 buys a model capable of 120psi and will inflate up to 4 tyres between charges, which only take a few minutes longer than the standard model. This is also quite impressive, given Muc-Off has opted for a 7.4v 450mAh, which improves power output but without unduly increasing bulk.  

The Pro also incorporates a digital gauge and auto cutout when the desired pressure is reached, which is super convenient and a very welcome upgrade. Other improvements include a screw on extension hose for TPU valves since these can melt (it’s also recommended when tackling Schrader), a ball needle for footballs, beach balls and similar items we may pick up on a family, or group ride.

The instructions give guide times for various tyre sizes when fully charged. 26inch isn’t included but there are sufficient comparators for me to cross reference claims during testing.   

This Velo21 mini adjustable torque driver wrench. Unlike the preset types I’ve been testing recently, its adjustable between 4, 5 and 6nm, which should cater for contact points- a seat post adjustment, loose stem face, Aheadset bearings, cable pinch bolts, 6 bolt disc rotors, disc callipers to name but a few. Formative impressions are favourable, as is the price, so we'll see what the next few weeks and regular fettling reveal...  

 

Torque & Spring Tuning

 

I like torque wrenches and if not essential in the life and death sense, they’re increasingly necessary when working on modern bikes. An overly stressed component can snap at best leaving you out of pocket or resulting in a potentially nasty accident. This wallet friendly MPart Torque wrench has been my faithful workshop companion for several years now and highly intuitive to use. It caters for most of the fleet’s needs.  

However, there are some parts that require a little extra. Back story done, Oxford sent me their Torque wrench with a range between 2 and 22nm. Obviously, this won’t entertain cassette lockrings and square taper crank bolts, which need closer to 50nm, but otherwise, this range caters for everything from a bottle cage, mudguard mount, or derailleur jockey wheel to old school quill stems.  

Made from hardened chrome vanadium steel, setting the torque is simple, just a little counter-intuitive, coming from the M-Part and induced speedy referral to the (thankfully included) instructions but essentially boils down to turning the base/handle clockwise until it aligns with your desired torque. In common with the MPart, the wrench itself is ratcheted, which is super convenient from the perspectives of speed and efficiency, especially in tighter spaces.   Ursula’s front mech turned temperamental again, a quick turn of the adjustment screw and a gentle pinch of the front mech’s nose cured this, the chain skipping from big to small rings without missing a beat once more.  

Spring is synonymous with seasonal fettling and usually involves a good washing and hard paste waxing of some sort. Having done so, I decided it prudent to put some dead butyl to good use, dressing Denise and Ursula’s top tubes to avoid dings (should the bar end shifters catch in a tumble with terra firma, or the bars swing back with force).  

This also presented an opportunity to dress Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s Topeak racks to prevent further abrasion from pannier hardware. I also tweaked Ursula’s rear TRP Spyre, gave both bikes a good clean using this BBB Bio Ready Wash Bike Shampoo, finishing off with the brand’s Bio Gloss Bike Wax Polish (since they’re also on my test bench).  The ready wash, as its name suggests requires no water and isn’t designed for lightly soiled bikes. Spray on and buff to a shine with a microfibre cloth. Great from the convenience standpoint.  How it compares to something like this Motoverde Waterless Wash & WaxMotoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing remains to be seen (although it’s worth saying the Motoverde is also a good bit dearer)   

I’ve switched the fabulous Lomo ZephyrLomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing for this Altura Thunderstorm City Pannier. It’s another roll top design, meeting IPX6 for water resistance but a little smaller (20 litres) and claimed to have a ten-kilo maximum payload. It employs Rixen Kaul fitting hardware for limpet-like tenure to most diameters of rack tubing-easily tweaked with a few turns of a Philips screwdriver.  

I also like the closure system, which lacks the outright speed, dare I say convenience of a quick release buckle, but is more readily repairable, should it fail. A small thing, but I also like the light loop and the subtle retro reflective flecks. Oh, if black’s not er, your bag it also comes in a more stereotypically “commuter”  fluro yellow. 

Internally, it also employs sleeves to safely arrest and segregate 13-inch laptops and similar tech, or indeed, other items, such as a U lock. There’s a stiffener at the wall (where it rests against the rack) but unlike the Lomo, no scuff protection around the base- not unusual and an observation, rather than criticism. I’ve had a few off-road excursions with it and even moderately laden, no rattles and the mounting hardware has held 10mm tubing like the proverbial limpet.   

It has also been a good time to check butyl stocks, and I’m pleased to report several have been successfully patched, so could rejoin their respective panniers. A decent quality patch kit and patches are another of those unsung heroes of the toolkit. I pension tubes off after three patches but am firmly of the persuasion that I want the best chance of the patch and ultimately repair time effective. Right, off to play with the CST Patrol again...