Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.   

 

Rambling & Roaming

 

Having tamed cranks, rim tapes and similar sources of potential mischief, it was time for longer, laden escapes from the maddening crowd.   

The Madison Summit rack has been doing its thing very competently, without fuss, or fanfare. Its TIG welded in Taiwan and to the standards I’ve come to expect from products coming out of the Far East. The 10mm rod offers a very stable platform for panniers, especially those such as this Oxford Aqua V20 with Rixen Kaul type attachments Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing, which is particularly welcome along rougher roads and trails. I’m still really impressed, astounded in some respects, by the Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing

The narrower (100mm) top section is a little slender for bigger rack bags and though this Carradice will sit reliably, allowing me to concentrate on a decent tempo, it can make fitting and removing panniers from the lower tier trickier, technically defeating the object of a two-tier design. For the record, the Carradice is 116mm wide, so a consideration if you’re planning on a bigger rack bag, especially if you’re pairing with a pannier-single or otherwise.      

 I’ve been contemplating tyres for a while and was talking in terms of something old school and beefier. I may still do this, during the winter months but I’m sticking with something swifter. I’m still impressed by the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing. My experience suggests that 60tpi casings are more reliable, especially off road. I’ve had one flat with the Ravager, three with Pirelli’s perky Cinturato. Admittedly one was a rim tape issue, so not down to the tyre and they still have bags of charm but I’m craving dependability at the moment, in case that wasn’t obvious.

I got curious about Maxxis Rambler, which Maxxis say are their most popular gravel offering, reckoned to perform uniformly well along asphalt, dirt roads and gravel. The Rambler has been around for a decade now, which suggests a fundamentally very competent design. Tightly packed centre knobblies promise efficiency, while more widely spaced cornering/side knobblies promise to keep bite deep when cornering on looser surfaces.

As would be expected, it’s a dual compound, tubeless ready model. There are two variants, our 60tpi and 120tpi, they’re also available in a wealth of sizes, from 38 to 50mm. I’ve gone for the 700x40, since that’s optimal, dare I say maximum for Denise’s clearances.

The Silk shield puncture repelling technology runs from bead to bead, thus offering the sidewalls some defence against flats and cut damage. They also tip the scales at a similarly respectable 524g apiece. I’ve run ours up front, the Ravager behind, as a control for the first hundred miles. Now, the Ravager are no slouches, even on metalled roads. However, the 60tpi Rambler feel palpably faster. Having reached for the rambler front and rear, I’ve am averaging 16.7mph against 15.9mph along comparable sections and thus far, they’re proving equally engaging off road, along dry hardpack trails, unmade roads and forest trails.

Grip and cornering prowess are proving similarly dependable, although I anticipate needing something with a deeper, more mtb influenced tread when the wetter, wintry months bring boggy bridlepath.  50psi seems the sweet spot for mixed terrain shenanigans but obviously, I’ll experiment further, as time and miles advance.   While giving Muffin a well-earned wash and light fettle, one thing led to another and I was curious as to whether they’d fit comfortably up front, being 42mm (against the Continental Pure Contact, which are 40mm wide and run a hair’s breadth from the MudHugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards. Much to my surprise, the short answer is yes, and this also presented an opportunity to tweak the Spyre calliper’s alignment fractionally.

The Leatt 6.0 are still performing impeccably and having regularly alternating between Muffin (and the Shimano M540) and Denise suggests the Leatt are a little stiffer, translating in slightly improved power transfer, Finish quality is also proving very high, resisting regular dis/engagements with nominal signs of wear.  Interestingly, the Leatt cleats seem fully compatible with Shimano SPD pedals, but Shimano cleats weren’t quite so compatible and its required more effort to engage and release.

Staying with pedals, I’ve always leaned towards dirt biased SPD shoes since the power transfer is generally very good, and you can walk or run efficiently and comfortably. Race shoes, mtb or otherwise can be fine- I’m quite happy whizzing along on the fixed for several hours with these stiff soled FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  but found them a touch too rigid, say shouldering bikes cyclo cross fashion across more technical sections, or indeed mooching around, but then our old friend “horses for courses” springs to mind. 

Make Racks Great Again

 

Now, that might sound a strange statement and before I go any further, I’m very fond of bike packing luggage-big seat packs and similar. Models such as Carradice SQR Tour, SQR Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing and Zefal R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing being prime examples

However, they’re great for some things but not a panacea. The SQR models are both capacious and very rigid, release and fit very reliably and feel bombproof. However, they are also quite heavy and their centre of gravity quite high.

The latter’s not great if you’re coming close to the 10kilo limit and obviously, metal posts only. Bike Packing luggage, such as frame bags can consume the lion’s share of a small frame’s main triangle and, unless you’ve dressed the tubes in helicopter tape, straps can quickly damage frame finishes.

Ursula and Muffin both sport four-point Topeak racks capable of hauling 25 kilos of kit. Two tier designs, such as this Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack | cycling-not-racing have a definite advantage if you are looking at pairing rack top bags and panniers-much easier to fit, remove and generally access. Positioning the panniers lower down also reduces the centre of gravity, thus less impact upon handling when heavily laden.

Now I know I said I wasn’t going to be whipping a Rack to Denise, but then she has the bosses and even though the Zefal R11 serves most of my riding needs, the option of carrying extra, especially now I’ve gone for a 2X 36/26 setup broadens horizons. Maybe it’s indicative of a deeper wanderlust, the desire to pack up and figuratively, piss off.  

Racks afford excellent lateral stiffness, are much cheaper to refinish than a frameset when the time comes.

I tend to bind old butyl around those areas where mounting hardware rests, thus preventing unsightly wear through the finish, which can also impair the rack’s structural integrity. Electrical, or duct tape are good alternatives. Aluminium alloy racks are pretty reliable-have been for many years, although they are more vulnerable to fatigue than cro-moly steels and though not impossible, harder to repair. Practices such as not laying bikes down on their luggage certainly help. Oh, and not exceeding the maximum payload.  

Madison were gracious enough to send me their M Part Summit Rear Pannier Rack. The design looks a close homage to Tortec’s Epic.  10mm 6061 aluminium alloy rod, treated to a satin black powder coated finish, a 5 year no quibble warrantee and a 25kilo maximum payload. Pretty typical of similar designs, including the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and its non-disc counterpart. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing. 715g complete is also pretty favourable.

The Topeak have a top plate, doubling as a splashguard, which is arguably more convenient on a dirt biased build, but less problematic if you’re running a top mount bag and easily made from a strip of scrap aluminium or composite-I’ve gone this route very effectively with a Tubus rack 25 years ago. There are a few mounting options, yet the fitting kit is much simpler than many, which may lack the outright adaptability of some designs, but meant fitting to Denise was a fifteen-minute job, including checks with the spirit level.  

Despite a relatively narrow platform, it’s proving a very reliable, dare I say perfect host for my long serving Carradice Super C rack bag.  It’s served on and off for 12 years and, testament to the brand’s build quality, it was quickly and easily rejuvenated with a few blasts of Stans No Tubes Bike Wash and some gentle agitation from this Green Oil Bicycle Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW, which is another long-serving favourite of mine.

Bike Packing luggage does have some definite advantages though. Improved aerodynamics being an obvious example and this nimbler nature also comes into its own when tackling narrow singletrack and where appropriate sneaking through traffic in town. 

Some folks say, with justification, that it makes them consider exactly what they need, rather than defaulting to kitchen sink territory. There are perspectives, shades of grey, rather than absolutes. It’s about finding the formula that best works for you, your machines and riding contexts. A few outings have convinced me it was the right move and the rack itself offers excellent lateral stiffness.

Though hardly a puncture plague but another flat, this time the front Cinturato is giving me cause to consider going for something bullet proof, specifically Specialized Crossroads Armadillo, or indeed, Continental Contact Plus but the latter are a good bit heavier. I’ve upgraded the rim tape, ordered a fresh supply of Rema Tip Top patches, substituted the Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing for a 60Tpi Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing and for the time being, will reflect on things further.         

I've said it before, but the Specialized Crossroads Armadillo are a seriously capable mixed terrain tyre that aren't too ponderous over metalled road but have sufficient traction for hardpack and lighter cross country/trails duty. 38mm is arguably a little narrower than I traditionally take things a little wider on this front, although no issues with 32-35mm on my cyclo cross bikes.

They are a bit portlier than your typical gravel tyre thanks to the 60tpi wire bead only option.  Then of course, I've rekindled my obsession with Specialized's Rock Combo and wondered if the Hardpack of that era had ever been available in 700x40c. Not that I'd be paying retro prices, mind...

 

 

Filth Fighters & Other F Words

 

 

Cleaning and maintaining bikes is an integral part of riding. Some folks see it as a chore, but doing so greatly reduces the likelihood of problems developing mid-ride, possibly miles from home. It’s also the time to check things like chain and brake pad wear, tyres for shards of glass, cuts etc.

Did I mention cables, housings, loose mounting bolts, sloppy bearings…Winter aside (where I will typically rinse bikes with fresh cold water to dismiss road salt, grit and similarly corrosive, or abrasive nasties, I default to a good quality car wash n’ wax formula, since this will clean surfaces and leave a waxy, protective layer behind.

During the warmer months, there are waterless bike shampoos and washes that will remove light to moderate grime. Some, including this Moto Verde Waterless Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing will leave a high quality wax barrier behind. However, while they’re suitable for gloss surfaces-including plated, polished, carbon and anodising, you’ll need to look elsewhere for matts.  

There’s still a place for bike washes, although, outside of a testing context, I err toward the concentrates since these can serve as degreasers when purging dirty drivetrains and diluted “to taste” depending on whether I want something faster acting on really heavily soiled gravel, cross, or mountain bikes. People seem to like visually foamy formulas, seemingly of the belief they are doing more, whereas those that cling to the surfaces are actually breaking down the grime.

Against this backdrop, I’ve received this Stans Bio Based Bike wash 1litre. It’s a stock blend and like many others, makes a point of saying its biodegradable.

Biodegradable is one of those terms that’s a little vague and can just mean “it will eventually break down”. By the same token, it’s also worth saying that because something is made from natural ingredients, doesn’t mean to say its necessarily kind to user and finishes alike. Citrus is very acidic and while an incredibly effective lube stripper, requires careful deployment.   

The Stans contains Lauryl Glucoside Citrate, an alcohol derived from coconut, or palm. It’s a surfactant, meaning it allows water to mix with oil and grime, breaking the latter down and ultimately, making the surface easier to clean. On the plus side, it’s very gentle on skin (hence its use in baby shampoos, body washes), breaks down very quickly in water and produces a very rich, stable foam that clings convincingly to the host surface, thus gobbling the grime more effectively. 

However, these can also have a high PH level, some people with particularly sensitive skins can develop contact dermatitis. Like most products, avoid getting any in your eyes. If you do, rinse your eyes in clean water for a while and seek medical attention.  In common with hair shampoos and indeed, some other bike washes, its designed to be delivered over a wet bike, worked into a lather and rinsed with fresh water.

I remain impressed by the NZero Bike Degreaser NZero Bike Degreaser | cycling-not-racing  . It’s not the fastest acting, or the most visually exciting, but very effective and so long as you’re not too gung-ho a little goes surprisingly far. It can be diluted and used as a bike wash, or even used neat on heavily soiled bikes-just have buckets, brushes, sponges and similar cleaning implements handy and don’t leave longer than 60 seconds before doing the scrubbing and rinsing thing. There are other homely remedies for stripping drivetrains, from the highly flammable and therefore potentially dangerous, to the passable in a pinch.

Some folks advocate dishwashers but that to me has little benefit aside from damaging seals and other precious components. I would generally avoid washing up liquids (dish detergents) since these contain salts, which are corrosive and can dull lacquers and other finishes. That said, it’s also very effective at stripping lubes and grime from cassettes, chains and indeed, rings.  

Talking of which, in my excitement at finding a bargain, I discovered I’d bought a boost version of the Deore crankset, designed for a 73mm bottom bracket shell, whereas Denise is a 68mm. This wasn’t obvious, in the way it was with Ursula and the Zee but crept in over time, when I noted some exposed axle on the non-drive side, two hundred mixed terrain miles hence. Sorted now but note to self… All that glitters is not necessarily the correct length.  I’ll leave it here with my review of the Park TW5 2.0 Ratcheting Click Type Torque wrench Park Tool TW5 2.0 Torque Wrench | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Two Deore & Fresh Cable

 

Three rides in and I concluded a slight kink in the rear derailleur housing was causing mischief-it wasn't obvious, until I was cruising on the hoods and happened to take this shot.  I obviously replaced the outer and inner cables upon returning home.  Little surprise that shifting became that bit snappier and free of phantom shifts and similarly unwelcome distractions.

Even if bars look comparable, width and shape can influence things, so if changing contact points, or making wider changes, it's worth changing the cables, ideally during, rather than afterward.  Talking of bars, here’s Steve’s review of the Lomo 3 Litre Handlebar Bike Packing Dry Bag Lomo 3L Handlebar Bikepacking Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing

All part of bedding in, dare I say bonding (deeper) with the build. Not one, but two Deore mechs arrived, which is welcome. The SR Suntour fitted to Ursula is box fresh and the STX adorning Denise’s downtube still has plenty of strength in its spring. Nonetheless, it’s thirty years old and these things tend to expire at the least convenient moment. Both Deore hail from the same era but have little signs of use and plenty of power within their springs. 

I'm sticking with the Shimano CX50 stopper up front since there's plenty of bite and pads are readily available. Temptation was to pop another Kore on, but this is change for change's sake.

Mick Madgett has worked his wheel building sorcery and built the older, non-disc Ultegra dynohub into the Ryde Sputnik rim. Not an urgent job but glad its sorted. I've switched the existing disc braked Nexus Shimano Nexus DH-UR700-3D Dynamo Hub | cycling-not-racing over to Muffin and run the low drag Shutter Precision SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD as a second/spare, as need arises. Otherwise, I'm really pleased with the bikes in their present guises.

Denise's 36/26 is actually quite close to the "cut down" trend that struck in the early 1990s, where riders would often forgo the big ring (typically a 48 tooth) in favour of the 38 and 28 since this saved a few grams and was arguably more practical off road. Though there's a lot to be said for triples, especially on a tourer, I've found keeping them on song four seasons round to be something of a chore.

I also ran a Shimano 600 with a Stronglight 48/38/28 setup, and this could also prove temperamental. I should point out this was inherited with the bike, not of my doing and was ultimately replaced with a Suntour XCD six months after the frameset's powder coat makeover in March 1990.  I was a big Suntour fan and remain very fond of the late 80s and early 90s groupsets.      

Elsewhere, I fitted the Blackburn Atom SL computer to Muffin and though accessing the battery compartment is fiddly, thanks to the tiny screws, the rest of the unit, including sensor feel solid in the Blackburn tradition. The display is very clear and the switches similarly solid. Not quite as bombproof flavour of old school, late 80's Cat Eye, but not far behind, so we'll see. 

 

Staying with Cat Eye a minute, I was interested to note they still offer wired versions, including one called the Enduro, which is apparently designed for off road duties. I'd go for a wired model since by definition, they are the most accurate, reliable option, but there's the risk of me embarking on a headset strip/similar, forgetting about the wiring and ultimately knackering it. I've got form for this, having done it before, to a Strada back in 1994.  I spend considerable time connected to the internet in one form or other, to the point where I simply want to decompress and disconnect on my rides- escape, for want of a more involved explanation.  

 

The Lomo Mountain Bike Gloves are still seeing plenty of action and continue to impress in their pleasant, understated way. Also on the test bench is the Lazer Strada Kineticore helmet, a design that blurs genres.

It employs their ScrollSys system for a precise, 360 degree fit, TPU eyewear docking system for parking sunglasses, a rear light mount and Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection, offering protection in a similar manner as MIPS. Where the two systems differ is Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection is built into the helmet from the beginning, whereas MIPS is added afterward. This ensures it covers the entirety of the helmet and theoretically, improves ventilation, while also using less material.

Hopefully none of us will ever need to call on this, or rely on our lids, but twisting forces can prove particularly harmful in a crash.  

Build quality and attention to detail impresses me at this price point. Simple things like the polycarbonate shell extending around the rim and an intuitive "conveyor belt" type adjuster tightening or relaxing the cradle tension being prime examples.

On the subject of sizing, I went for a small, finding the medium can be a little larger than others. I'm at the upper end of the 51-56cm circumference but still achieved a secure, comfortable fit with scope for caps, buffs and similar headwear. Our sample also coordinates nicely with these Shimano RX600 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing and cap 

Double Pleasure

 

No, not that sort-I’m referring to a 36/26 Deore Crankset complete with front mech and cables for less than the cost of a couple of rings. Be rude not to, since I was bound to wear Denise’s existing Deore 1x at some point in the not-too-distant future- it was the original ring and had served on Ursula before that.

Denise’s existing KMC chain was registering .5 on the chain checker. Late middle age in chain terms, so another thing I would need to be switching at some point.

While there was still some life in the existing KMC, I decided to mount the crankset, before going for a front mech and (bar con) shifter route. This was to check whether the existing 106 links was sufficient, or whether I might need 108. I’d some pre-cut (106 link) chains in stock, so would be nice if that was so.

In terms of front mech, given the frameset’s age, I reasoned, like Ursula, the seat tube was 28.6 and had originally looked for another STX. However, front mechs are fairly crude beasts, so I wasn’t going to pay over the odds. This top pull SR Suntour triple was along similar lines and seemed a good bet, especially teamed with a Microshift bar end shifter, which offered plenty of scope for adjustment and fine-tuning.

Before the crankset and front mech arrived, I’d gone on a quick “Easter Egg” hunt for shifter, cables, pre-cut chain and set them aside. The following morning, having returned from a ride, I decided to measure up (guestimate) for the front mech’s positioning, removing the seat tube bottle cage and applying some helicopter tape where the mech’s band on clamp would most likely rest.

Next, I noticed some mysteriously chipped paint on the seat stay carrier boss. Out with the fastener and a quick lick of high-build primer followed-another little job off the list. Since I also needed to reposition the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp, so decided to install the Microshift bar end shifter, one that had commanded Ursula’s STX front mech, prior to the frame’s repair, modernisation and makeover.

I didn’t want to get to the point of no return, rather where I could progress but without being committed, able to break and reflect as required. Just as well, since the gear cable housing I’d ordered hadn’t materialised. I’m sure I had some but ordered more. I wanted to check 106 links was of the correct length and, given the existing was 106 and still had sufficient life, I bolted the 2X Deore crankset in situ and set everything up to ride.

 Afterall, if the Crane Cousins could journey to the centre of the earth sans front mech, I could for a week, or two.  While we all like stuff that comes together first time and with minimal faff, there’s something very satisfying about fine tuning.  At this point, I was suddenly struck, dare I say attacked by a horrific thought- that the mech wouldn’t reach the rings. Offering the mech up quashed this anxiety and also confirmed its ideal mounting point-phew! 

On the stand, everything seemed to behave and the rear mech didn’t look unduly strained and was replicated in subsequent rides, so when some Shimano gear cables arrived, I removed the chain, offered the SR Suntour mech up and, it fouled the rear tyre…Confidence drained from me like a straining tea bag. Two options…Buy a new mech, an STX or Deore LX from this period. Or…Switch Ursula’s STX for the SR Suntour. I did both.

Found a Deore LX for less than £10 and was relieved to discover ample room between Ursula’s rear tyre, even with a 2.3. Given I wasn’t going the triple route, I was confident the SR Suntour would play nicely, and it did. A fresh inner wire, some adjustment of the H/L screws, and the cage scooped the chain back and forth dutifully. Cable pruned and glued, I turned my attention to Denise. Existing KMC chain split, I mounted the STX, fitted a fresh KMC and wired everything up. To my relief, save for some tweaking of the limit screws, the cage swept the chain between rings.

Some would argue mullet drivetrains are a better bet and on some technical grounds, I’d agree, but the 36/26 11-25 setup gives me a good, knee-friendly spread between 28.4 and 89 inches. I’d also been toying with replacing the Suntour XC SE cantilever. These are a rear-specific design from the late 1980s and still offer decent performance. However, adjustment is a little more involved compared with a traditional cantilever. I was also seeking something period-sensitive but without paying period prices

Tektro CR720 were an obvious default-sensibly priced and certainly up to the job…Then someone waved these NOS (New Old Stock) Kore under my nose for less than £10. A third of the Tektro’s rrp, so no debate there. Again, I needed to replace the inner wire, and wanted to inspect and most likely, re-grease the bosses, so then was the time.

By contrast, the Kore were very easy to set up- I just added some sped grease to the bosses, slotted everything in situ, and adjusted with a 5mm Allen key and 10mm ring spanner. The left balance screw needed a quick turn-using a 3mm Allen key common to all modern multi-tools. Talking of which, I'm off to fine-tune the rear mech.

 

Revisions & Regaining Trust

 

I’d found myself a little tentative, following the blowout and subsequent long walk home with Denise. Rationally, I’d switched the tube, replaced the rim tape- both fresh, so no reason I’d succumb to a mechanical. I’d also given the cassette and chain a good clean, stripping the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather for its dry counterpart. The chain was worn to .5, so still had some life, maybe three hundred miles, depending on conditions.

Against this backdrop, I’d decided the best tactic was to pop out on a shorter evening loop-8 miles, taking in some gravel and rougher roads, ruling out any tyre, or tube issues and also getting a better idea of how the big wide, swoopy WTB bars would improve control in these contexts.

I’m still very fond of the original Soma Condor TEST: SOMA CONDOR HANDLEBAR and would recommend them to those seeking a shallow reach drop, whether it be a cyclo cross, touring, or drop bar mountain bike. However, the WTB Mountain Road Drop definitely have an edge on the control front off road. I’d forgotten how good they were and so glad I kept them. On-One’s Midge were another surprisingly good budget buxom bar and these were also available in 25.4 and 31.8, catering for old school mountain bike stems and obviously, more contemporary models.

The larger diameter was less whippy, giving a more direct feel on the road but without feeling harsh off road. Aside from the control factor, flared drops open the chest cavity further, improving climbing prowess on longer ascents, which is something I’ve traditionally enjoyed on the fixed gear winter trainer.

However, I’ve settled to subtle riser drops, these Genetic D-Riser 4 GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing have struck the best balance for road duties, their D-Riser 16 GENETIC D RISER 16 BARS | cycling-not-racing arguably win by a nose if gravel, cyclo cross and possibly trailer tugging duties are your primary duties.

The other advantage the Genetic offer over the likeable Soma is uniform diameter across the top section, meaning accessories are easier to fit.  More subtle designs such as the Genetic also have an advantage when riding into headwinds, given the narrower surface area.      

Five miles under the tyres, turning right along a section of disused airfield I began to relax, engaging with the evening sun and letting rip. Though I hadn’t intended to change the bars, this proved an inspired choice and sensibly undertaken when the bike was already awaiting minor work. I’ll switch the Leatt Endurance 6.0 over to Denise and the M540 back to Muffin.

The Leatt 6.0 have proven very impressive on the fixed. The Cro-moly axles and 6061 bodies provide a very rigid, supportive platform, which was particularly apparent when climbing out of the saddle or otherwise accelerating hard. Obviously, Muffin’s relatively lofty bottom bracket and 165mm cranks help, but there’s generous clearance, so no fear of grounding a pedal during enthused cornering. The black anodised finish is also wearing well with the regular clippings in and out. Bearings are not only incredibly well sealed but employ needle and ball bearings.  It will be interesting to see how they fare off road.    

Staying with off road rubber a moment, here’s my review of the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing

I’d had Muffin’s Giant Continuum 9 Wireless Computer head unit go rogue. Changing the CR2032 cell seemed the most obvious solution-the sensor cells can go with little warning, regardless of whether premium or generic cells are used. I always apply a thin lick of Vaseline or silicone grease to the contacts, optimising connectivity, while sealing the elements out.

However, the head unit would not calibrate correctly, so I decided to salvage what I could- CR2032 cell, fork sensor and silicone casing, since Ursula and Denise still run them. I’ve had a year’s service out of it, and some might say my £9 worth. I spotted some NOS Blackburn computers and went for a pair, just in case another of the Continuum should fail unexpectedly.    I’ll close here with this review of the Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench Velo Tool Mini Adjustable Torque Wrench | cycling-not-racing